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| At Kwampofu Guesthouse in Harare.Plush locality in Harare city. |
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| "QUADRIPOINT" :- Supposedly the point where the boundaries of Zimbabwe,Zambia ,Botswana and Namibia meet on the Zambezi river. Unique in the World. |
Having visited 82 country's with my last visit to the African continent being in 2018(Check my travelogue :-https://soloafricansafar.blogspot.com/ ) decided it was time for a Wild-life African Safari of Zimbabwe,Zambia,Namibia and Kasane combined with a exploration of one of the seven natural wonder's of the World, Victoria Falls . Ahoy ! Booked my "Mumbai-Harare" return air ticket costing Rs 47,034 with "Air Tanzania" through "Ajanta Travels Pvt Ltd" scheduled for departure from Mumbai on Saturday(17/9/2022) and return from Harare on Monday( 7/10/2022) , a total stay of 21 days . Next was my hostel stay's in Harare,Victoria Falls(Zimbabwe), Livingstone(Zambia),Katima Mulilo(Namibia) and Kasane (Botswana) booked through "www.booking.com",
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| Classic scrap yard artwork in KwaMpofu garden. |
Getting the Visa's for all these four country's was a lengthy tedious process which was handled by Mr Ramamurthy. Iyer of "Farshak Travels" situated next to my residence on Prabhadevi road. Total cost of all the four visa's amounted to Rs 18,791 which included the travel agency processing fees. On Friday(16/9/2022) just a day before my departure a calamity struck my household when my housekeeper Sabina.Dias who does the pet-sitting of "Tomcat Matata" in my absence lost her sister Maria(Ludin).Fernandes to a sudden heart attack. My entire evening was spent at K.E.M hospital helping Sabina in the protocol regarding her sister's death , the first time in my life experiencing the hospital's legal channel's procedure for clearing her body for funeral. Life is so unpredictable .Sabina herself had had a fall the same evening and a miraculous recovery and hence was treated by the K.E.M hospital doctors. Finally late at night rode home on my motorcycle and after feeding my only house member and non human family member "Tomcat Matata" and giving my house key to my neighbour Mr Hitendra.Soni caught a taxi and as usual was haggard and very early at "Chhatrapati Shivaji -2 Terminal"
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| 3 Pitbull's of KwaMpofu guesthouse Most ferocious dog's seen in my lifetime. |
Was happy to see "Covid-19" safeguards of face masks a distant memory and after the normal procedure boarded the "Air Tanzania TC 401 " plane and on reaching " Julius Nyerere Airport " in Dar-es-Salaam we didn't have to change planes for the transit flight and hence after two hours sitting inside the plane flew to Harare. The service provided by " Air Tanzania" was excellent with continental breakfast on the flight from Mumbai to Dar - es -Salaam and lunch of fish curry/cold prawns with wine and beer on the Dar-es-Salaam to Harare flight. "Tanzania Airways" is a small airline with excellent in-flight service.Robert Gabriel Mugabe airport of Harare is a small airport and after a short wait in the queue got my visa stamped and headed out into the bright Zimbabwean sunshine, my 83rd country to have set foot upon. Taxi's are atrociously expensive and the taxi ride from the airport to "KwaMpofu " guesthouse located at 11 Manitoba road, Brasileiro, Harare cost me U.S $ 20 which was the cheapest with others quoting US $ 25 to U.S $30 .The lady taxi driver found it difficult to find the address as this was a gated community of palatial bungalow houses having high fences and " Kwa Mpofu had opened just last year in 2021.Finally through phone dialing to the guesthouse reached this exotic location that was a classic small bungalow farmhouse converted to a guesthouse. Zimbabwean Mr Tonderai the guard cum all rounder handyman of this guesthouse showed me my chic plush room named "Sunrise View" which had African handicraft decor and as usual made myself comfortable in a home away from home.. The Nomad was finally at home away from actual home in a strange land which is the hallmark and status of the definition "Nomad". Ahoy ! First and foremost thanks to "WhatsApp" network rang up neighbour Mr Hitendra.Soni in Mumbai to inquire about the status of my house and was relieved to know that Housekeeper Sabina was normal, recovering from shock and injury and had arrived at my house to feed "Tomcat Matata".
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| A group of Corporate executive's residing at KwaMpofu guesthouse requested me to pose for a photograph with them .I was not conducting a "Corporate Tour" but was the only coloured Asian residing in this classic bungalow guesthouse and while these corporate executives headed for their boardroom meeting as can be gauged by their attire i would be changing to normal casuals and beginning my nomadic safari travel across South East Africa. Travel educates. |
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| AT " Extra City" Bus terminus .Just a "Photo Shoot".Start of the "AFRICAN ROAD SAFARI-2022" from Harare. |
Sunday(18/9/2022) Harare :- Had my normal four hrs sleep in the plush cozy room of "Sunrise View" with myself being the lone tourist in this entire bungalow estate besides the local employed staff. Absolute pleasant weather at 15 *C and the WiFi was excellent. Tonderai brought me my continental breakfast at 0700 hrs, excellent and well prepared. Was mistaken of thinking that i was the only guest as later spotted a young local Black Zimbabwean getting his car ready and later a small corporate group of members dressed in suits having breakfast in the classic open air garden.They requested me for being with them in a group photograph, memories of Harare. Later just before leaving requested Tonderai to show me the dog's kept in the small caged kennel and was shocked to see three ferocious pit-bull terriers lunging at me, wanting to be freed from the kennel. I presumed they were being used for "Illegal Dog Fighting" but then a guest told me the owner releases these dog's on his farm as guard dogs. As for me would be comfortable coming face to face with a lion in Chobe or Hwange National park rather than left alone with these 3 Pit Bull terriers in KwaMpofu bungalow estate. Travel educates.
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| "Show Ground " in Harare.A hall inaugurated by Indian Prime Minister Late Rajiv.Gandhi. |
Finally at 1000 hrs bid goodbye to this unique farmhouse guesthouse with Tonderai arranging a taxi that cost me US$ 10 for the short ride to "Extra City Bus Stand " office situated opposite Harare showground. On the drive we passed alongside the infamous ghetto of Mbara which is notorious for its high crime rate also passing alongside the largest Christian cemetery in Harare.On reaching the bus stand office situated on the opposite road of showgrounds which had a huge sign board "Zimbabwe Agriculture Society" thanked my driver for the guidance and entered the bus terminus ground of "Extra City" luxury bus fleet, considered the best in Zimbabwe.One way ticket cost was U.S $ 30 with departure at 1700 hrs and also booked a return ticket for Thursday (6-10-2022) from Victoria Falls..Whiled away my time in the large bus stand passenger terminal watching news on the large screen T.V channel from across the World, most prominent being the funeral ceremony ritual and protocol of Queen Elizabeth II Co-Incidence that on the funeral day of the longest serving British Monarch Queen Elizabeth II i would be in Victoria Falls named after her illustrious descendant who presided over the largest British Empire with "Victoria Falls" being named after Queen Victoria..Lunch was local "Chicken/Rice/Cold drink" costing U.S $4, a pittance in comparison to the short distance taxi fares in Harare, a cultural surprise to me.
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| Departure Harare at 1700 hrs. |
Taxi fares in the U.S.A or London seemed cheaper compared to Harare ! After lunch left my trolley bag in the luggage storage cage and walked along the main road towards a plush take-away food mall. All prices quoted in U.S $ and chicken seemed the favourite dish. From the food mall entered the showground through the main entrance gate of "Zimbabwe Agriculture Society" and was amazed at the size of this massive showground that had different avenues/Streets and a variety of halls, exhibition centres and also a small casino having only slot machines. Came across a public shed hall named after former Indian Prime Rajiv.Gandhi inaugurated in 1986 where a pastor was giving a sermon to his audience. Religion and Christianity has a major role in Zimbabwe and came across many advertisements of local Black Zimbabwean Preachers.After a brief walk within Showground's estate made my way back to "Extra City Bus Terminus".Tried my hand at "Pool". on the pool table in the Bus terminus passenger enclave.
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| The bus had a trailer cargo container attached. A Innovation in public transport of passenger bus's |
The bus arrived at 1630 hrs with a huge "Cage Trailer" attached to its rear end akin to a container truck, something i saw for the first time in my life.Boarded the bus at 1700 hrs onto seat No 13 and the journey to Victoria Falls City began with a few passengers collected at bus stations on the route. Excellent new A/C bus with video entertainment but the seating was very cramped with not much leg space distance between seats. As usual we had a few stops on the way for food and toilet. I was the only Asian in the entire houseful bus filled with Black Zimbabwean passengers. It was akin to a lone Black or Caucasian human walking the streets of Mumbai teeming with Brownie Indians.
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| " NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES YOU WASH A GOAT,IT IS STILL A GOAT" :- AFRICAN PROVERB This can happen only on the African Continent. On entering " Shoestring Backpacker " no human but their mascot pet Nanny goat " CHICKEN" greeted.me by refusing to give a seat on the couch. |
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| "Shoestring Backpackers ". Mascot "CHICKEN",the goat.Hilarious Copywriter and Mascot. |
Monday(19/9/2022) Arrival Victoria Falls :- My co -passenger alighted at Hwange early in the morning and finally at approximately 0545 hrs reached Victoria Falls City..Boarded a taxi and for a rental of U.S $5 was dropped at "Shoestring Backpackers ".On entering the palatial grounds of this most happening hostel in Victoria Falls was surprised to see a goat sleeping on a divan and a dog on a sofa. Made friends with "CHICKEN" the pet goat of "Shoestrings Backpackers "and "Odin" the pet dog. At 0700 hrs the Backpacker reception office opened and met Angela the receptionist who explained me the Backpacker environment as also showing me my 10 bed dormitory room and later paying her my rental stay. The "Nomad' was again at home away from home in a new location in a different environment. Ahoy! There were just two of us in the 10 bed hostel, a lady from Italy involved in local tourism with "Shearwater" travels and myself. After a hot bathe made my way to the beautiful hostel open air dining cum playground with a swimming pool. Breakfast was "Bacon eggs/Tangada Tea", excellent.
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| At the entrance of " Victoria Falls Safari Lodge" in Zimbabwe which overlooks the Zambezi National Park.Pristine location in Victoria Falls and among the expensive lodges.. . |
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| German Documentary wild life journalists at "Victoria Falls Safari Lodge" for filming "VULTURE RESTAURANT".. |
As usual got busy on the Internet with excellent WiFi and got in touch through "WhatsApp".Back at home in Mumbai house caretaker Sabina was gradually returning back to normal from the death of her sister and her own injury. Thankfully she was babysitting "Tomcat Matata", definitely the last of my pet's.Later in the day after a lunch of beer with a egg sandwich headed out into town towards Victoria Falls .Just next to "Shoestring Backpackers " is a small Catholic church " Our Lady of Peace ", affiliated to Hwange Diocese having masses on Saturday and Sunday.Walking further down the spacious lonely road and came across plush "Wild Horizons" safari and tourist travel agency. Enquired of the various tourist safari's and extreme adventure sport's conducted in Victoria Falls. Decided to do a "Sunset Dinner Cruise" and booked a ticket for the same in advance costing U.S $ 50. Having done my travel homework enquired about the "Vulture Restaurant" at "Victoria Falls Safari Lodge" and to my utter surprise the executive told me there was a "Shuttle Bus" that plied across the town to various tourist sites. He told me to wait outside the agency which was one of the stops for this free shuttle service, a relief considering the unbelievable taxi fares in Zimbabwe.
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| Waterhole view from Victoria Falls Safari lodge overlooking the "Zambezi National Park".. |
Boarded the plush safari bus at 1215 hrs and the driver Mr Tenny was very informative as i was the only tourist on board.Finally was outside the amazing "Victoria Falls Safari Lodge" situated on a small plateau within the "Zambezi National Park" having a bird's eye view of the forest below. The hotel exterior was akin to a African Boma built with thatched grass. Something different in comparison to other hotels and has been voted as the best Safari/Lodge resort in Zimbabwe for the last 23 years. Amazing.Made my way inside the hotel and was told to walk up the stairs to the bar which was awesome having a magnificent view of the waterhole below on the plains as this lodge is situated facing the "Zambezi National Park". Spotted Vultures flying in the air above and a few seated on the trees as also a group of Marabou Storks. Also had my first big game wildlife sighting spotting a herd of Kudu arrive at the waterhole for quenching their thirst. At 1300 hrs our guide, hotel employee Mr Cossam.Ncube arrived with a bag of waste food and led us down the stairs towards the base of the hotel grounds facing the waterhole.
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| "VULTURE RESTAURANT":- Feeding of vultures daily at 1300 hrs on the ground below classic "Victoria Falls Safari Lodge " at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.Notice the Marabou Storks that stand out among the vultures. . |
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| Cossam.Ncube explaining us tourists about importance of Vultures & Scavengers.. |
A German wildlife documentary filmmaker along with a complete crowd of Caucasian tourists were eager to view this once in a lifetime spectacle. I had previously seen vulture feeding in Gujarat in India where dead cattle was fed to vultures. We tourist's stood behind a fencing while Cossam spread the non-vegetarian waste food on the ground resulting in a massive rush of the vultures towards the food. A few Marabou(Adjutant) Storks also entered the feeding frenzy. Mr Cossam also explained us the importance of Vultures in maintaining the balance of nature as well as cleanliness of the forest ecosystem. Finally after satisfying our visual knowledge of vultures made our way back up the stairs to the hotel bar and from there walked down the stairs back to the main entrance gate. Shuttle bus was punctual at 1345 hrs and thanks to a co-lady tourist got a timetable of the daily 'Shuttle Service"..The Nomad was finally at home away from home in "Shoestring Backpackers " , the most happening Backpacker/Lodge for the youth ,elderly and the young in mind in entire Victoria falls .
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| Marabou (Adjutant) Storks also joining in the Vulture feeding feast.They usually maintain a distance perched on the nearby tree's. A sight to behold. Amazing Africa and Victoria Falls.Also spotted Kudu at the waterhole. This forest is within the "Zambezi National Park" hence spotting of wildlife at waterholes. |
Sports activities like "Beach Volleyball", "Pool" and a "Swimming Pool" along with strange unbelievable pets like "CHICKEN" the Nanny goat keeps Shoestring Backpackers rocking for the low budget as well as high spending tourist.Seems "Pool" is a very popular indoor sport in Zimbabwe and "Shoestrings Backpackers " had 2 Pool tables of which one was always occupied. Dinner was a "Quarter Chicken Piri Piri", excellently prepared .Had a good night's sleep and it rained early in the morning. On waking to go to the toilet at night was amazed to find "CHICKEN" the Nanny Goat seating on the sofa outside our dormitory named "Acacia" which had just two guests, me and a Italian lady named Martha. Seems "CHICKEN" had become my friend and guard refusing to leave me. Unbelievable and bizarre as also the fact that as a hardcore Non- Vegetarian it is mutton which is one of my favourite dishes .Akin to U.S.A where the luckiest "Thanksgiving Turkey" receives a Presidential pardon from slaughter seems "CHICKEN" the Nanny Goat is destined for a natural death. Ahoy !
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| " Main Falls" viewpoint of Victoria Falls viewed from Zimbabwean side of Victoria Rainforest National Park(Mosi-Oa-Tunya). The rain season is from Mid-November to the end of April.Maximum flow of the World's largest "Curtain of Water" over 1.7Km ,a natural wonder of the World, is from the months of March onwards and then the waterfall gradually reduces in flow after stoppage of rains. |
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| Entrance to Victoria Falls (Mosi-Oa-Tunya) in Zimbabwe. |
Tuesday(20/9/2022) Victoria Falls :- Breakfast at 0700 hrs was the routine "Tanganda Tea/Fried eggs/Toast" costing U.S $ 5, my normal breakfast at home in Mumbai although i drink ton's of tea which could cost a fortune. Travel educates and value my common house breakfast taken for granted.The guesthouse office opens at 0700 hrs and after getting my WiFi connection got in touch with my daily on-line routine. At 0930 hrs got dressed and headed to "Wild Horizon" office to board the shuttle bus to Victoria rain forest national park(Mosi-Oa-Tunya).The bus was punctual and had a few tourists with bus driver Mr Tenny being a very helpful guide cum driver., absolutely friendly.The Tourist's alighted at "Elephant Walks" centre and i was dropped at the last stop which was "Victoria Falls Rainforest National Park". Thanked Tenny for the drive and walked across the parking lot to the ticket booking counter. Entrance fee was U.S $ 30 and on entering the National park followed the trail towards the Natural Wonder of the World, Victoria Falls locally named "Mosi-Oa-Tunya "which translated from the Kololo and Lozi languages means " The Smoke that thunders". As i had done my "Travel Homework" in Mumbai was familiar with the trek path that was excellently paved with cobblestone .
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| Statue of Dr David Livingstone in "Victoria Rainforest National Park(Mosi-Oa-Tunya)" in Zimbabwe.The Trail path leading to various viewpoints of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe side begin from this statue as the starting point. |
The first sight from where the viewpoint trail begins is numbered "(1)" at the statue of Dr David Livingstone , the discoverer of "Victoria Falls" to the Western World on Friday 16 November 1855 now renamed "Mosi-Oa-Tunya"but universally still called by its original name "Victoria Falls". The trail route is numbered serially so a tourist has to just follow the trail serially from Dr David. Livingstone's statue to get a complete view of Victoria Falls and the rain forest on the Zimbabwean side of the waterfalls..
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| "Chainwalk" of 37 steps to view gorge. |
Came across a family of Vervet Monkey's just further ahead of the statue near the park's boundary. Hilarious as monkey's are but definitely not as hilarious as "CHICKEN", the Nanny goat of "Shoestring Backpacker". The entire width of Victoria Falls is 1.7 Km and there are 5 different cataracts(Falls) along its 1.7 Km width..The "Devil's Cataract", "Main Falls",,"Rainbow Falls" and "Horseshoe Falls" are in Zimbabwe while the "Eastern Cataract" is in Zambia. The first waterfall viewpoint walking along the trail is " Devil's Cataract" which is the shortest at 70 m height but has the maximum flow of water among all the Waterfall flow channels. Near "Devil's Cataract" there is a tourist trail called the "Chainwalk" which is a descent of 37 steps down the trail to experience the chasm of "Devil's Cataract". The spray of water felt akin to being in a light drizzle of rainfall.After experiencing the chasm at " Chainwalk " trekked up the steep steps back onto the common cobblestone trail path. Next viewpoint was the "Main Falls" situated at a elevation of 72 m and was a sight to behold ,something i haven't seen before for the sheer amount of mist the water generates on hitting the gorge surface. The entire area was clouded in mist of water droplets akin to a drizzle of rain. This mist is a permanent feature for 365 days of the year and is the uniqueness of Victoria Falls(Mosi-Oa-Tunya).
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| Trail path through the rainforest to different viewpoints of "Victoria Falls" on the Zimbabwe Side. |
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| "Main Falls" along part of the the 1.7 Km width of Victoria Falls .The largest curtain of water falling over a precipice during its maximum flow months. This area of the "MAIN FALLS" has a permanent mist 365 days of the year and a rainforest in its vicinity on the Zimbabwean side. From the the month of August parts of the waterfall gradually dry up and the waterflow volume is reduced. |
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| Part of waterfall has totally dried up. |
The rainforest was dense and spotted one of the most colourful bird's which thanks to a tourist was identified as a Shalow's Turaco.My heavy binoculars had paid dividend's in appreciating the beauty of this exotic species from a close-up view. Victoria Rainforest National Park is a "Bird Watcher's(Twicher's)" paradise having over 470 different species of bird's but my aptitude for bird identification is pathetic and thanks to the tourist can brag of having seen the beautiful "Shalow's Turaco".Walking along the trail passed alongside "Livingstone Island" situated at a elevation of 93 m , the island from where Dr David.Livingstone first got a glimpse of Victoria Falls. on Friday 16 November 1855.Next to Livingstone Island is the "Horseshoe Falls" situated at a elevation of 95 m and next to "Horseshoe falls " is the perennial flowing "Rainbow Falls" having the highest elevation of 107 m but a reduced flow in the month of September. Peak flow of the Victoria waterfall's is during the month of May but then the visibility is reduced due to water vapour mist formation and hence to get a complete satisfaction of viewing this natural wonder of the World a tourist should visit twice, during the peak wet rainfall season and later during the dry season .
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| View of the Falls on the Eastern Cataract towards Zambia where the flow is less during the dry months with some sections of the Falls totally dry. |
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| View of "Livingstone Island" with tourists heading towards the one and only "DEVIL'S POOL(Armchair Falls)" to swim on the edge of Victoria Waterfalls on the Zambia side. This can be done only in the dry season after mid-August when the water flow and level is low as seen in these photographs. |
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| At "DANGER POINT" which is the end of the "Victoria Falls Rainforest National Park" on the Zimbabwe side.The falls seen are the Eastern Cataract which gradually dry up and below the gorge is the "BOILING POT" which is accessible from both Zimbabwe and Zambia where "White Water Rafting" trail starts. |
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| "VICTORIA FALLS BRIDGE" that links Zimbabwe and Zambia.In modern times it is World famous for "Bungee Jumping" done from the centre of this bridge. |
Walking further along the trail came towards "Danger Point" which is the end of viewing the falls from the Zimbabwean side.From "Danger Point" you get a view of the Eastern Cataract situated on the Zambian side and the "Boiling Pot" which has access from the Zambian as well as Zimbabwean side side of Victoria Falls for start of the "White Water Rafting" trail along the Zambezi river gorges.
The final trail is a short uphill walk from "Danger Point" towards the boundary of the park that gives a view of "Victoria Falls Bridge" that links the country's of Zimbabwe and Zambia. In modern times this bridge is also World renowned as one of the best locales for the extreme adventure sport of "Bungee Jumping" which is conducted from the centre of this historic bridge.
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| Plush cafe & Handicraft shop in Victoria Falls National Park. |
So finally had fulfilled one of my travel ambitions of seeing Victoria Falls(Mosi-Oa -Tunya) and was not disappointed for the same as the hype and Hosannah's about this natural wonder of the World was definitely real and authentic and no tourism publicity gimmick. Made my way back down the trail and thanks to some tourists spotted a lone deer in the bush a few meters away from the main trail. Visited the souvenir shop at the entrance/Exit gate evaluating the value of my own "African Handicraft" collection back home in Mumbai.Excellent wood work art and worth the money as it lasts for generations as i personally own a few from Kenya and Tanzania inherited from my father and a few my own personal collection.Finally made my exit and entered the car park which also has shop's selling African curio's on the street and a group of African dancer's were performing some tribal dance.The "Shuttle Bus" was prompt on time and at 1410 hrs was back at home away from home.My only room partner , Italian lady Martha had vacated 10 bed "Acacia Dormitory" and to my utter disbelief was alone in this now palatial room.Had a swim in the pool doing my "Aqua Yoga" which has done wonders to my body.at my young age. Ahoy !In the evening "Shoestrings Backpackers" had organized a " Amakhosi Night" which had tribal dancers and a flame thrower.The charges were 5 US $ and traditional meals served.
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| AMAKHOSI NIGHT at Shoestrings .A tribal Dance performance along with a "Flame Thrower". |
The crowd enjoyed the exotic African drumming dances and towards the end also joined the performers.Had a sleepless night due to mosquitoes and the " Mosquito net" nor the mosquito repellant " Odomos" was of any use and had to adjust to the same.The only drawback in this classic backpacker lodge in its cheapest dormitory accommodation is mosquitoes at night.I was the only guest in the 10 bed dormitory with " CHICKEN" guarding me, seated on the couch outside the dormitory. Aren't pigs one of the most intelligent animals and pork a delicacy for most non vegetarians ? I was amazed at the basic intelligence of " CHICKEN" the Nanny goat of " Shoestrings Backpackers".
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| Fine Dining .Handicrafts and curio's |
Wednesday (21/9/2022) Victoria Falls :- At daylight officially woke up and came across a young group of German ladies who had camped on the ground facing my dormitory. There were travelling in their Toyota which was their home away from home.Camping at different locations and I was amazed at their skill in erecting and dismantling a portable tent.They were doing some study course in Namibia which was their next stop.Also met a young South African man who had camped on the same ground and was on the road camping at different locations since the last month.I thought I was the freak " Nomad" but realized nomadic travel is very popular in the developed Countries, especially Europe.Travel Educates.At 0900 hrs dressed and headed down the familiar route to "Wild Horizon" tour agency and had a talk with Eddie the tour operator who guided me regarding the local safari's and sports activities. At 0945 hrs boarded the shuttle bus which was today packed with tourists heading to "Victoria Falls Rainforest National Park".
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| Assortment of African Art. |
After dropping the tourists at the National park the bus headed back towards town centre and i alighted the bus at "Elephant Walk Shopping Village".Having visited East African city's over the decades was familiar with African wooden curio's and handicrafts having a large collection at home in Mumbai.The market was huge having a variety of handicrafts, most prominently wood sculptors and carvings. Window shopped the market explaining to the pestering seller's that i was just a tourist. Downtown Victoria Falls is a beautiful clean tourist town and almost all shop's deal in tourism and handicrafts. Inquired about the snake park but was told that it had closed down during the "Covid-19" tourism catastrophe. A lady tourist policewoman guided me to a large travel agency and booked a "Crocodile Cage Diving" tour with them for tomorrow costing US $ 80 which included transport and a visit to the Snake/Crocodile park. Walked back home to "Shoestring Backpackers" ,a pleasant walk of discovering downtown Victoria Falls Town.Back at "Shoestrings" was as usual relaxing on the Internet in the pleasant "5-Star Style" farm house surroundings with non stop music.
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| ZAMBEZI RIVER SUNSET CRUISE :- "JAWS" of the African river system. A beautiful giant of a Hippo advertising its strength and dominance . |
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| "Wild Horizon Jetty:- Zambezi Sunset Cruise |
At 1610 hrs the "Wild Horizon" tourist van which had a Italian couple picked me up from "Shoestrings Backpackers" and we drove to "Victoria Falls Safari Lodge" to pick up a British couple and finally to our destination "Wild Horizon Jetty".On arrival at the Jetty was surprised to see a large number of tourists waiting to board the cruise boat.The sight of the mighty Zambezi river was deceptive in its calmness with not a ripple on its calm waters ,resembling a swimming pool. I was the only Asian tourist , the rest being Caucasians and a few Black tourists. Our group of tourists were seated on the upper deck of the boat which had a fancy bar.The captain of the boat Mr Skinner explained us the format of the cruise and hoped we were lucky in spotting wildlife along the river.
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| Zambezi Sunset cruise. |
The cruise finally began and the drinks flowed.As for me tasted a new local cocktail called "Malawoshanthi" prepared by the barman Mr Amtek and served by steward Valentin, both absolutely busy at the drinks counter.Excellent service and the ambiance was of grandeur and now only hoped to spot Africa's most famous river wildlife non human residents. Our first sighting was Hippo's and was amazed at the stealth at which they surfaced on the surface of the water akin to a submarine. No wonder at times native canoe boat's get toppled by this most dangerous animal of the African river water system.Further down the river spotted a pair of elephant's on land with the help of my binoculars. Although not carrying a SLR Camera my binoculars compensated for the same through closeup views.Our Captain helped us in sighting the wildlife which can only be spotted with a trained eye and experience of daily cruising on this river."Horses for Courses".Our greatest sighting of this short two hour cruise was the sight of a large tusker swimming from one end of the river to the other end.Definitely rare for the occasional tourist but definitely not uncommon for the crew of these boat cruises.
We finally arrived back at the pier at approximately 1900 hrs where Mr Soro our driver was waiting for me, the others having arrived earlier being on a different cruise boat.There are different types of River safari cruise boat's based on the tour operator and type of on-board entertainment of the particular river cruise. Was finally back at home away from home and relaxed on the internet. My engineering knowledge solved the mosquito problem by using the two portable fan's lying unused and had a mosquito free night alone in this spacious 10 bed dormitory akin to A.C accommodation. Back to boarding school !
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| " THE STRENGTH OF A CROCODILE IS IN WATER - PEOPLE CAN BE VERY STRONG IN THEIR ENVIRONMENT" :- AFRICAN PROVERB CROCODILE CAGE DIVING" at Crocodile park in Victoria Falls. |
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| Guide Sheppard and self. |
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| Albino " Khiva" is awesome in size "Crocodile Cage Diving" in "Crocodile Park".. |
After signing the bond was introduced to Mr Shupani , in charge of conducting the "Crocodile Cage Diving".He led me to the "Crocodile Cage Diving " enclosure which resembled a deep large well and explained me the method and procedure for "Crocodile cage Diving".There are 3 large Nile crocodiles in this enclosure with the largest crocodile being the blind Albino crocodile "Khiva" who was 56 years old. Next was "Bongo" who was 38 years of age and the last Prado was youngest at 36 years of age.They were basking at the edge of the pool.Next i was introduced to diver Mr Sheppard who would be accompanying me underwater and he explained me the Scuba diving breathing process.Unlike deep water scuba diving there was no air tank attached but a portable flexible hose used to supply oxygen. I was somehow uncomfortable with this breathing apparatus besides having a mild cold and after much trial and error entered the cage which was built like a lift with glass walls and having gaps for feeding the crocodiles. Sheppard and myself finally submerged and "Khiva" was the first to approach us , a real massive crocodile who looked out of the World with its whitish skin colouration and white eyes , a result of cataract blindness.
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| Eastern Green Mamba. |
The other two followed the leader and finally i managed to feed "Khiva" a meat piece through the gap which it bit with one of the most powerful bite force for any animal or mammal. Crocodiles have the largest bite force among animals with the Salt Water Crocodile of Australia topping the bite force list among the various crocodile species in the World.I finally decided to call it a day having realized one of my wildlife ambitions of cage diving and observing a crocodile from close quarters. Business seemed to be slack post "Covid -19" and the crocodile park was almost empty. Met Mr Brian.Nielsen , a White Zimbabwean and the owner of "Crocodile Cage Diving" .
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| Snouted Cobra |
It's a small World and when i told him i was from India and a retired "Marine Engineer" he surprised me by saying he worked in "Bombay High" and many off-shore rigs in India as a Deep sea construction diver. Excellent entrepreneurship from "Deep Sea professional Diver" to ownership of one of the only 3 "Crocodile cage diving" sites in the World.In fact had wanted to do "Crocodile cage diving" in Cape Town but missed it due to lack of time. Sadly Brian Nielsen informed me that they would be shifting their "Crocodile Cage Diving" location to some other place as "Crocodile Park" would be closing and replaced by a luxury hotel. Change is permanent. After the "Crocodile Cage Diving" was taken for a tour of the "Crocodile Park" which is included in the cage diving fee's.Mr Sheppard explained me the various different crocodile's on display.Saw another Albino crocodile in the park but not as impressive as "Khiva'.Saw a pair of dwarf crocodiles that seemed lifeless from the distance. Later we entered the Herpetarium situated within the crocodile park.Saw some of the rare snake species not normally seen in zoo's. Snakes fascinate me and got to view the "Rattle Snake" species common in America, American literature and American films.
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| Snake awareness and handling at "Crocodile Park" in Victoria Falls. |
Got to view the Mamba as well its cousin the "Green Mamba", both highly venomous and feared in Africa. Came across the unique "Snouted Cobra" that is the most aggressive snake i have viewed in a Serpentarium that raised its hood and came to attack us with the glass forming the barricade. Viewed the "Gabon Viper" which has the longest fangs in the snake World and a few Gabon viper fangs were kept as exhibits. Took a photograph of a pair of these fangs laying them on my palm.Saw a Albino python and finally took a photograph with a small Boa constrictor. Thanked Mr Sheppard for the excellent guidance in conducting the "Crocodile Cage Diving" and explaining the various crocodile and snake species in the park.Was finally dropped back at "Shoestrings Backpackers", my home away from home.I had a new guest in the palatial "Acacia" 10 bed dormitory, a cruise ferry mechanic named Mr Edebel.Was fed up of Western chicken/beef menu and on inquiry was surprised to know of a shopping mall within walking distance from "Shoestrings Backpackers" and walked all alone on a empty street to the mall.Was surprised to see a plush mall filled with shoppers and foolish to not discover "OK" mall earlier on my arrival in Victoria Falls.. Better late than too late.Purchased a apple and three bananas, my dinner for the night after being on a total meat/eggs/ potato chips diet of American /European food. Ahoy. .Had a nice normal nights sleep with the fan being the antidote for the notorious mosquitoes.
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| A walk on the historic " Victoria Falls Bridge" crossing the International border from Zimbabwe to Zambia.Notice the railway line . |
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| Bye bye " Shoestrings Backpackers" On my way to Zambia. |
Friday(23/9/2022) Departure Victoria Falls and arrival Livingstone in Zambia :- Woke up and realized that the car camper was packing up to drive his Toyota to Harare.24 year Old South African Mr Philip.Melouney gave me a guided tour of his house on four wheels.
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| A Stroll from Zimbabwe To Zambia across Victoria Falls Bridge. |
He has been travelling by this Toyota station wagon for the last one and half months carrying all household essentials in this station wagon.Wherever he stopped he set out his tent on the roof of the car using it as his home.He even had a portable fridge and a invertor, the authentic 4 wheeler roadie .Ahoy !Strangely just as i was about to depart "Acacia Dormitory" it suddenly got occupied with a group of young 4 Zimbabwean girls on a holiday. On Departure "Shoestrings Backpackers", home away from home was bid adieu by "CHICKEN" the Nanny goat sprawled like Royalty on the main open air lounge sofa.Walked the short distance to Wild Horizon office and boarded the Victoria Falls Safari lodge bus to Victoria Falls National Rainforest National car park. From the Car park it was a short walk to the "Zimbabwe Border Post" where the immigration formalities were quick.Seeing the traffic jam of car's and lorries seems mechanized vehicles face a long queue in clearing the border immigration posts.
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| A view of the World famous Batoka Gorge of the Zambezi river from Victoria Falls Bridge. |
From the Zimbabwe Border immigration office it was a long walk to Zambia.Walked across the historic Victoria falls bridge which has a amazing view of the Batoka Gorge with rafters in the water finding their way through the narrow gorge. Strangely the famous "Victoria Falls Bungy Jump" point at 111 m(364 ft) height was empty of extreme adventure sport enthusiast's. It is considered one of the most scenic and frightening bungy jumps in the World and also in the headlines in 2012 for the miraculous survival of 22 year old Erin.Langworthy , a Australian lady bungy jumper from Perth whose cord broke and she survived the fall into the crocodile infested Zambezi river. Having done "Crocodile Cage Diving" in Victoria falls and seeing from handshake distance the "Bite Power" of Khiva, the albino crocodile, should say it was a miraculous escape for this lady bungy jumper. Tourist business was very slack post "Covid-19" although the Zambezi sunset cruise was houseful and a superhit to all the tourists on different boats. Immigration clearance at the Zambia border check post was swift and again the road traffic queue seemed lengthy.Finally was in Country No 84 and was approached by a taxi driver who from U.S $ 30 agreed to a price of US$ 10 for transportation to Livingstone.Bizarre bargaining price reduction in hiring taxi's !It was a nice long drive and on the way came across a Indian restaurant.
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| The centre of Victoria Falls Bridge that is World famous for its 111 meters Bungee Jumping. |
Finally reached "Fawlty Tower Backpackers" which had a huge gate and after paying the taxi fare entered the palatial estate that resembled a 5-Star hotel complex complete with a well maintained swimming pool next to the plush bar. Appearances can be so deceptive and the main entrance gate of "Fawlty Tower" was not at all impressive akin to "Shoestrings Backpackers Lodge " in Victoria falls. Receptionist Mirriam welcomed me and the necessary formalities were done.Did the booking for "Microlight Flight" over Victoria falls and "Devil's pool" swim." Livingstone Island/Devil's Pool swim " cost US $ 115 + 20$ taxi fare. while " Microlight flight" cost U.S $ 185 + $ 10 taxi fare.Later was shown to my room which was a "5-Star Dormitory" akin to some of the hostels i came across in Europe and in East Africa.Seems hostel and backpacker lodgings in Africa are better than European hostels as ample cheap land space was available but then comparisons is inconsequential as every Country, city or locality has its own uniqueness. Infamous/Famous "Chungking Mansions" in Hongkong where in 2005 i lived in a pigeon hole space room had its own unique charm as any of the palatial "5-Star Style" backpackers lodges i lived during my nomadic travels across the Globe. Ahoy ! Internet was not available in the accommodation but next to the open air swimming pool.There was a huge mango tree next to the swimming pool and strangely raw mangoes fell from the tree on the roof of the Bar/ Breakfast open air lounge .Later had a swim in the beautiful pool which surprisingly was deep and non-swimmers should be careful not to fall in the pool."Shoestrings Backpackers" pool in Victoria Falls was shallow meant for non-swimmers.
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| Plush " Fawlty Towers Backpackers Reception office.Plush akin To a 5 - Star Hotel. |
Did my "AQUA YOGA" in the pool and after a few swim strokes got back to "Mukoni" dormitory that had 6 beds. A American Mr Daniel from New York was my room mate and on his advice a late lunch was at "Cafe Zambezi" situated a short walking distance from "Fawlty Towers Backpackers".Again looks were deceptive and from outside this cafe seemed small but once i entered it to my amazement found it as palatial and large as Fawlty Backpackers. Lunch was "Pan fried crocodile bites" with the local beer "Mosi".I had last tasted crocodile meat in Vietnam and it is similar to chicken but much tougher and hard.After lunch decided to sightsee the vicinity inquiring the price of fruits and as usual purchased a banana which was expensive in comparison to my home city of Mumbai.There is a plush shopping mall complex opposite "Fawlty Backpackers" called ""Mosi -Oa-Tunya Square" that has a variety of plush shops ranging from clothing to fast food and a massive huge mall named "Shoprite"..Walked down the broad road towards the main city centre and came across Catholic "St Theresa Cathedral" and further down a Catholic school.Walked right upto "Livingstone Museum" and then turned back towards home away from home buying some groceries from "Shoprite Mall" for breakfast.Back at " Fawlty Tower" got busy on the Internet seated next to the bar by the swimming pool.
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| " Mumpkin" the 15 year old dwarf cat Of " Fawlty Tower Backpackers ". There were no dogs in the lodge. |
Mosquitoes are the only drawback in Livingstone and " Fawlty Tower Backpackers " as once the sun sets its difficult to sit out in the open air beautiful pool surroundings having 5- Star ambiance. Met the owner of " Fawlty Tower Backpackers ", a very simple unassuming middle aged white lady who I first mistook to be a employee. Ms Elissa.Dave the owner had visited India and was also surprised on seeing.me , the rare Indian tourist in Africa.Had a long talk on India and Africa and she admitted that Africa is very expensive for the average backpack tourist. At bedtime had a long talk with New Yorker Daniel, my room mate , a non degree psychiatrist by profession also at times moonlighting as a "Pet Sitter" which is a excellent job in First World country's..Thanks to his American passport he gets entry into most countries with a visa on arrival. Mosquitoes were a menace and somehow did manage my 3 hrs + sleep quota.
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| All set for my first Microlight Flight with "Batoka Sky Adventures"in Livingstone. |
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| Ready for the Microlight Flight across Victoria Falls. |
Saturday(24/9/2022)Livingstone,Zambia :- Unlike "Shoestrings Backpackers" where WiFi was available in the accommodation in "Fawlty Tower Backpackers" it was available only next to the bar/swimming pool , but excellent. Breakfast was "Bread/Cheese" and at 0730 hrs Driver Kingston of "Batoka Sky Adventures"came to collect me for the morning "Microlight Flight".It was a long ride to the small aerodrome and i was the only tourist in the large mini van.Finally arrived at the " Batoka Sky Adventures Microlight Runaway" ground which had a waiting list of tourist flyers. Had to sign a indemnity bond before doing the flight. Camera's or smartphones are not allowed as it is a risk for the open air propeller engine fitted in the aft .Finally my turn came and after seating me on the pillion seat a set of headphones along with a helmet was fitted on my head. The young pilot was a British Zambian and after fastening the seat belt the pilot started the engines and we rode down the runway.Take-off was smooth and at my age having flown in different types of aircraft's including helicopter's except military planes should say the Microlight flight was something different. Very similar to "Tandem Paragliding" and it was akin to being pillion on a flying motorcycle.
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| Most expensive Microlight flight of a lifetime. |
The view of Victoria falls and the Zambezi river from above was a sight to behold and all my solo travel homework of Victoria Falls and the Zambezi river system was practically explained in this expensive 15 minutes flight.Luck favoured me and also got to view the "Big 2" among the "Big 5" of Africa's wildlife. Spotted a herd of elephants along with a young baby elephant distinctly visible from the air. Saw Hippos submerged in the Zambezi with only their heads jutting out and to my amazement saw a small herd of elephants walk along the side of a main road akin to pedestrians. Rare spotting was of a massive herd of buffaloes resting in the shade of the forest below.Also spotted antelopes which are common in the African jungle. All good things have to come to an end and we finally had a smooth landing .A camera is attached to the microlight wing which films the entire flight and same sold for U.S $ 30.I didn't purchase the video but the memories of this 15 minutes flight will last my lifetime.
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| On the Gorge at " Boiling Pot" with a view of " Victoria Falls Bridge above and the " White Water Rafting" gorge behind me.A tiring trek to the base of Victoria Falls. |
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| Rafters heading down the hill to " Boiling pot". |
From the "Batoka Sky Adventures Microlight Aerodrome" it was a long drive to "Mosi-Oa-Tunya" as Victoria Falls is called in Zambia.Driver Kingston gave me his phone number for the return drive back to home away from home.The main entrance to Victoria Falls in Zambia is not as attractive as the Zimbabwean side which is more tourist designed with a plush fancy cafeteria at the entrance. Entrance to Zambian side of Victoria falls was without much fanfare having a small car park at the side as also some restaurants and after purchasing the entrance ticket costing US $ 20 entered the National park also realizing i had left my reading glasses at the Microlight office. On entering asked for the pathway which was not as well maintained or numbered as in Zimbabwe. Was advised to first do the "Boiling Pot Trek" as it was still early morning and a difficult task once the hot Sun heat was at its peak."Boiling Pot" is situated below a elevation of 110 meters and it was a long 1.5 Km steep trek down to the base of the gorge and not a easy task if unfit and thanks to "AquaYoga" my knee pain had vanished as also calf muscle pain common during strenuous treks.
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| Steep stairs leading to " Boiling Pot " |
Came across many rafters and the laborer's hauling the rafts heading downwards onto the main launching site at the gorge below.Finally reached the base of the gorge which was a awesome sight with the sound of gushing water and view of the Victoria falls bridge above on the main road.Watched a few White water rafters start their jig-saw route across the gushing waters of the Zambezi river gorge.After a short rest at "Boiling Pot" trekked my way uphill back to Victoria Falls National Park, and felt like a youngster thanks to "Aqua Yoga" and a disciplined health fitness routine in my daily life.So far so good as the future is unpredictable. Ahoy!
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| View of Victoria Main Falls from Zambia side. |
The Eastern Cataract waterfalls had almost dried up in most locales along the rock face with just a trickle of water flow. Walked along the narrow "Knife Edge" bridge which during peak rain during the months of May ,June required wearing of a raincoat in order not to get wet from the spray of the gushing waters of Victoria Falls. Now in September it was a pleasant dry walk across this narrow scenic bridge.As i had now seen the Falls from the Zimbabwe side which offers the best view and also from the air on the Microlight flight this present view from the Eastern Cataract end of the Zambezi side was a tame affair. From the Zambian side the tourist gets a scenic view of "Victoria Falls Bridge" and the "Boiling Pot" below the gorge to which i had trekked and is the base for "White Water Rafting".
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| " KNIFE EDGE" Bridge(Zambia). |
Was at the right place at the right time and got to see two young ladies do "Bungee Jumping" from the bridge a drop of 111 m which was breathtaking watching through binoculars. After the jump a Handler of the Bungee Jump company was lowered down from the bridge on a sling and he caught hold of the lady who was swinging and both were pulled up onto the base of "Victoria Falls Bridge". Exactly opposite of my "Bungee Jump" at the "Last Resort" in Nepal with the Bhote Kosi river flowing below which was as scenic as "Victoria Falls Bridge" Bungee jump . I was lowered to the ground after my Bungee Jump and a assistant freed me and we both trekked up back to the Bungee Jump bridge. Through Binoculars spotted tourists walking with harnesses under the "Victoria Falls Bridge", a tour conducted for explaining the architectural marvel of constructing this historic bridge.After viewing the bridge made my way back towards the exit gate and had a marvelous wild life sighting of a large troop of Chakma Baboons.
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| World War -1 Monument in Victoria Falls National Park(Zambia). |
One large male rushed after a female and mounted her, mating in full public view of us tourists. In the wild Baboons are extremely ferocious but these Baboons seemed accustomed to human company and allowed me to come within shake hand distance for a few photographs. One baby baboon was seated on her mother's back akin to a jockey on a horse, hilarious and great stress relief from mundane city living.Zambezi side of "Victoria Falls" is worth visiting in the dry season for "White Water Rafting" and a trek to "Boiling Point" otherwise during the dry season the best views of "Victoria Falls" is from the Zimbabwe side.Finally made my exit and thanks to a local made a phone call to driver Mr Kingston also requesting him to collect my reading glasses from the Microlight reception office.Was finally back at home away from home at "Fawlty Tower Backpackers". My co-room-mate 6'4" tall New Yorker Daniel had left for Botswana and now this entire room of 6 bed dormitory was mine , a benefit of travelling during non -peak season, besides, "Covid-19" aftereffects was still prevalent in the tourism Industry as air travel was more expensive than the pre-Covid 19 era of travel.
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| Chakma Baboon with Young riding piggy back |
Relaxed on the Internet by the scenic poolside/bar, absolute 5-star ambiance except for the mosquitoes that make life miserable after Sunset."Shoprite Mall" opposite "Fawlty Tower" was my walk-in food store, a ultra modern first World shopping mall and the fashion and spending habits of young Black Zambians was eye popping and chic akin to the youth of First World European city's As a practicing Catholic i always make it a point to religiously attend Sunday mass in any part of the World and hence walked across the road to inquire the Sunday mass timings of "St Theresa Catholic Cathedral". Later in the evening the Internet connection got disconnected and it was a semi sleepless night due to mosquito menace and my own insomniac nature.I perfectly understand the insomniac plight of late Michael.Jackson that ultimately resulted in his premature death and envy people who just drop asleep within minutes on hitting the bed or even in a seated position.
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| Inside a " SPORTS BETTING SHOP " in Downtown Livingstone. I am canvassing to get sports betting legalized in India. |
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| ST Theresa Catholic Cathedral in Livingstone |
Sunday(25/9/2022) Livingstone:- At the break of daylight ventured onto the palatial "Fawlty Tower" meadow sad that internet connection was not yet restored. Attended the 0700 hrs mass at St Theresa Catholic Cathedral" that was full of Black Zambian worshippers and was surprised at the friendliness of Zambians, greeting each other while entering the church .Since the age of eight after migrating from Mombasa in Kenya to Bombay in India this was the first instance i was hearing a Catholic mass on the African continent. Mass was conducted in English and in the same manner as in Mumbai with only the hymns sung in local Zambian language with the Gospel singers swaying to the tune of the Hymn akin to American Gospel singers.The sermon was the longest i have heard for a normal mass and finally the mass got over at 0830 hrs and i won't be surprised if the next Pope will be a Black Pope from the African continent. After mass walked across the road to "Fawlty Tower" and had breakfast besides the swimming pool costing K45, two tiny sausages,two bread toasts and scrambled eggs along with limitless free tea or coffee.
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| Livingstone Museum In Downtown Livingstone |
On travels realize the value of home food we take for granted.Travel educates. After breakfast walked out of "Fawlty Tower" heading towards main downtown Livingstone city to visit "Livingstone Museum" as well as enquire about buses departing for Katima Mulilo in Namibia.Came across the "David Livingstone Memorial Presbyterian church" and seems Livingstone city has a lot of local preachers preaching different sects of Christianity ,very similar to Zimbabwe.. It was a straight long walk and inquiring with local Zambians was guided towards the right direction to "Shalom Travels".Downtown Livingstone has a lot of street hawkers and fancy shop's.After inquiring about the bus service walked back towards "Livingstone Museum" and was surprised to see a a Sports betting shop with live telecasts in progress and after ages saw a "Greyhound Race".Walked a little further and just fifty meters away was another sports betting shop.Unbelievable for a small city like Livingstone to have two large "Sports Betting Shops" a few meters from each other..
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| Railway and Jewish Museum In Livingstone |
Finally reached Dr David Livingstone Museum, a very prominent building situated on the main road to Livingstone city centre. This is the oldest and largest museum in Zambia and after purchasing the entry ticket made my way into the museum where the first section was on the evolution of the human race in Zambia.There were various sections and found the "Natural History" section of interest getting to identify various African species of birds and mammals.There is a entire section devoted to the life history of Dr David. Livingstone. Finally after visiting the handicraft shop made my exit from the museum. Lunch was at "Zambezi Cafe" and happened to meet Mr Amit.Rama ,one of the owners, a young Zambian of Indian Gujarati descent.
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| A study on history of timber Industry & Steam engine trains of Zambia . "Boiler Tubes" of train engine displayed. |
Had a small conversation with him and was not surprised to hear that Indian origin businessmen dominated the trade in Zambia.Telivision adventure superstar Bear Grylls survives eating anything edible and hence i decided to have "Game Meat" for lunch. Lunch was "Impala curry with rice and Nshima(Maize cooked like rice balls) along with beer. Honestly i didn't like the taste of "Impala Meat" and it resembled "Buffalo meat", tough in texture. "Zambezi Cafe" also has a swimming pool section cum bar where young kid's were swimming and a few women in Bikini's. I was getting a view of Black African fashion at its best .
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| Livingstone Railway Station. |
After lunch decided to visit the "Railway and Jewish Museum" which was a long walk to Chishimba Falls road but simple to locate.I was the only lone tourist and after paying 50 Kwatcha was given a guided tour by Mr Obino, a employee of the museum. He first took me to the "Zambezi Sawmill History Gallery" display room which had literature and photo's of the timber Industry of Zambia.The "Zambezi Saw Mills Company " was established between 1910 to 1911 by Messrs Trombus and Jacobs to initially produce sleepers for trains. From the pictorial museum we walked onto the open ground where various different train engines and train boggies were on display.
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| Steam Engine with inbuilt furnace. |
He explained me the few junk steam engines kept on display with the oldest dating to the 19th century, real rare steam engines of a bygone era of the rail transport Industry in Africa..Came across a beautiful stray jet black kitten at the entrance to the Jewish museum which had a pictorial and written display of Jewish history and prominent Jewish families of Livingstone most notably the Susman Brothers who held the contract since 1920 of transporting timber to Livingstone.Jews settled in Livingstone during the 1890's arriving from South Africa due to persecution in Lithuania.Europeans arrived in Livingstone over the next 50 years some fleeing World War II. After viewing the Jewish Museum" made my exit out of the "Railway Museum" and walked the long distance back to home away from home "Fawlty Towers". A huge entourage of Japanese tourists had arrived and occupied almost our entire plush dormitory floor.As for me it was being alone in the 6 bed dormitory, nothing to complain about except the mosquito's that created havoc at night even with the fan onn and applying "Odomos" mosquito repellant on my body. One positive fact is that these mosquitoes are not the carriers of malaria but a nuisance creating sleepless nights. Ahoy !
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| DANGEROUS HEIGHTS :- Standing on the edge of " Victoria falls(Mosi-Oa-Tunya)" dry rock face on the Zambian side of the Falls on Livingstone Island. Below me is the gorge on which the Falls splash and flow onwards creating a cloud of mist.During Dry season beginning from August the water flow of the Falls decreases and hence here in September we can swim in " Devil's pool" and pose for photo's like the above standing on the edge of the rock face.This is unthinkable from the month of March upto first week of August. . |
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| " Tongabazi Campsite" on the Zambezi river for ferrying tourists to Livingstone Island. |
Monday(26/9/2022) Livingstone :- At 0730 hrs reminded the new receptionist Joy to book a taxi for transport to the launch site for visiting "Livingston Island". Taxi driver Mr John arrived at 0745 hrs and at a fee of U.S $ 20 agreed for a round trip tranfer,astonishing taxi fares but then this is the normal in Zimbabwe as well as Zambia."In Zambia pay the taxi fares as the Zambians do" ! Since i was "Solo" felt the exorbitant taxi rates , one of the disadvantages of "Solo Travel' where public transport is unavailable or scarce.. In all Country's i mostly travel by public transport which is excellent in Europe and Asia as also parts of East Africa .
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| On the speedboat heading to Livingstone Island. |
Finally we arrived at the "Launch Site" where a camp was set up as a administrative office of "Tongabazi" the company that conducted this particular tour..I was the earliest and was told to sign a indemnity bond,my third indemnity bond and definitely my last on this solo tour as "Devil's Pool" would be my last extreme adventure sport in Africa.During the dry season of Victoria Falls the "Devils Pool" swim is the most sought after tourist attraction as this swim can be done only when the Zambezi river is in low flow which usually starts from mid-August.In fact i had planned my South East Africa safari with the sole purpose of having a dip in the World's only infinity pool, "DEVIL'S POOL".
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| Arrival on Livingstone Island. |
Tongabazi conducts 5 batches of tours to "DEVIL'S POOL" in a day with 24 tourists in each batch. A roaring monetary gold mine and they hold the complete rights of conducting this tour to the edge of "Victoria Falls" in the World's only infinity swimming pool. Spotted a lone elephant foraging along the riverside and was told not to venture too close to the riverside as crocodiles are masters of camouflage. Finally all 24 of our group member's arrived, all Caucasian tourists with me being the only Asian.Guide Mr Eustace gave us a briefing of the tour and each of us fitted with a life jacket. 6 of us tourists were accommodated in a small speedboat and finally at 0845 hrs we left Livingstone City to head for Livingstone Island on the Zambezi river
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| On Livingstone Island. Notice the " Rainbow "formation on Main Falls Mist behind me in the background. |
.It was a treacherous motorboat ride avoiding submerged and exposed rocks and again luck favoured us as the Main falls mist had a strong rainbow formation that was indescribable. First time in my life saw a Rainbow at ground level.We finally arrived on Livingstone Island after a 10 minutes boat ride that seemed like extreme sports rafting seeing the rocks jutting out of the water.On alighting on Livingstone Island we tourists were told to put our valuables in a sealed box next to a portable campsite.Next we changed into our swimming costumes and began the final walk cum swim to "Devil's Pool".The current of the Zambezi heading towards the waterfalls was strong and our guide helped us wade through the slippery rock stone holding a rope as support from the fast flowing river tide..
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| In " DEVIL'S POOL "with a " Rainbow " formation on the waterfalls mist. |
As for me swam through the strong current and found it easy.Definitely would be able to swim upstream and not be dragged by the current over the edge of the rock face and become a part of Victoria falls. Ahoy !The view of the Rainbow now seen below the falls in the water mist was something to be seen to be believed.We finally arrived at "Devil's Pool" which was a small circular pool right on the edge of the mighty Victoria Falls.Standing on the rock wall boundary of this natural infinity pool ,half submerged , had small fish nibbling my legs , a ticklish sensation.Each of us tourist was made to swim across to the edge of the pool against the backdrop of a flowing Victoria Falls to be photographed for memories of a lifetime.
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| Power of gushing Victoria Falls(Mosi-Oa-Tunya) "SMOKE THAT THUNDERS". |
A young couple were busy with romantic postures and when my turn came it was the eternal mindset that keeps me going ,quote, "Don't worry always try to be Happy ".Weather was on our side and we got beautiful photographs against the background of the rainbow.Another batch was waiting to get photographed in "Devil's Pool" and so after our brief dip and photography in "Devil's Pool" headed back towards our destination.On the way back walked along the dry rock face and got amazing views of "Horse Shoe Falls" and "Eastern Cataract".There is a plaque dedicated to David.Livingstone and took a photograph standing alongside the plaque.Finally reached our camp and got dressed for breakfast in the camp.At the breakfast table met a elderly White Britisher and exchanged some talks with him.As a "Solo Backpacker" you are never alone and always interacting with different people that makes the journey as interesting as the destination. After breakfast boarded the speedboat and headed back to Livingstone mainland.where driver John was waiting for me and at 1045 hrs we drove to Downtown Livingstone. On the way came across a herd of elephants foraging on the tree leaves next to the highway akin to cattle in my home country India.This can happen only in South East Africa !
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| View of the gorge and Eastern Cataract Waterfalls from edge of Livingstone Island |
Wildlife rocks at Victoria falls in Africa, both, Zimbabwe as well as the Zambian side..On reaching Downtown Livingstone booked a ticket at "Oasis Transport" costing 270 K for Katima Mulilo in Namibia.Was dropped back to "Fawlty Tower" and relaxed on the Internet. A Japanese tourist from Osaka , Mr Tomo, a masseur by profession was the new arrival into our 6 bed dormitory. So, for the last day my room had company and among Asian tourists seems the Japanese visit Africa in huge numbers akin to Caucasian tourists.Africa wild life tourism is very expensive in comparison to touring Asia and even Europe or America. Lunch was "Tilapia fish/Chips" purchased from "Shoprite Mall" and after lunch my regular "Aqua Yoga" in the tiny plush 5-star style pool.After my arrival there seemed to be a influx of tourists into "Fawlty Tower" beginning with the large Japanese group of young tourists.Absolute 5-star ambiance except for the mosquito menace after dark that makes sitting outdoors without a "mosquito Repellant" a torture.Dinner was "Big bite/Chips( chicken leg with French fries) from "Hungry Lion" take-away situated in Shoprite shopping mall.Akin to "Kentucky Fried Chicken" across the Globe in Africa it is "Hungry Lion" that is a popular franchisee.
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| At the memorial plaque Of Dr David Livingstone on Livingstone Island. |
The Insomniac had a last sleepless night thanks to "Mosquito menace" and own personal travel anxiety.
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| Travelling by road from Livingstone to Katima Mulilo and a glimpse of the Zambian countryside. |
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| A unforgettable stay at Fawlty Tower in Livingstone. Departure to Katima Mulilo in Namibia. |
Tuesday(27/9/2022) Departure Livingstone in Zambia and arrival Katima Mulilo in Namibia :- At 0330 hrs went to the main gate and told watchman Charles to open the main gate in case Driver John showed up to pick me at 0400 hrs as he had said yesterday.In Livingstone after dark you hardly see people on the street let alone 0400 hrs when the World is asleep and luckily spotted a car approaching "Fawlty Tower" which was a taxi having another passenger.He agreed to take me to the bus depot and so finally at the unearthly hour of 0415 hrs was at "Oasis Bus Depot".The bus was full with passengers ,me being the odd Asian in the crowd.Finally exactly at 0500 hrs the loaded bus began its 207 Km journey from Livingstone to Katima Mulilo.
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| Livingstone to Katima Mulilo on " Oasis .com" bus.One of the worst roads in the World. |
I have travelled and also ridden on my 2-wheeler through some of the worst roads and should say the initial journey was a highway to hell with the bus crawling at speeds of 20-40 Km/hr. Stopped at Mwandi village for passengers to alight/board the bus and it was a crawl of a journey upto the outskirts of Shesheke district.Akin to temples across India so also there are numerous sects of Christianity churches within Zambia most prominent being the Pentecostal church.At 1045 hrs reached the main town of Shesheke where most of the passengers alighted and picked up a conversation with Black Zambian Mr Gershom. Siwelva, a Zambian who had visited and worked in U.S.A and now into private business.After a long halt at Shesheke we finally headed to Katima Mulilo by crossing over the bridge built on the mighty Zambezi river.
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| At Katima Mulilo with Zambian Mr Monde who had bizarre similarity to dwarf actor late Herve Villachaize of James Bond Franchisee. Only difference is Mr Monde is Black.Are we going to have a Black " James Bond" |
On alighting at Katima Mulilo to my horror found my portable trolley bag missing from the overhead luggage..Created a commotion and the driver said to check in the luggage compartment which at first yielded no results.Finally a proportionally built Black Zambian Dwarf Mr Monde who reminded me of late dwarf actor Herve Villachaize of James Bond movie fame spotted the bag kept in a corner of the bus luggage compartment. A sigh of relief for although there were no valuables would have had to purchase a new set of clothes if this bag had gone permanently missing . Ahoy ! Seems the bus driver had shifted the bag from the passenger to the undercarriage luggage compartment of which i was unaware or too tired to notice.A wake up call to be more vigilant about my luggage while travelling by common transport.Mr Gershom guided me towards the immigration on the Zambian side of Katima Mulilo where after stamping of the passport it was a long walk to Katima Mulilo border post of Namibia.He also showed me the method of "X-Ray" screening of trucks at Katima Mulilo( Zambia Side) as Zambia had a severe drug smuggling problem mostly from Congo. One Katima Mulilo town is on the Zambian side and the other is on the Namibian side and hence most new travellers would get confused although i was aware having done my Africa travel homework at home in Mumbai.
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| Finally a walk to Katima Mulilo in Namibia from Katima Mulilo in Zambia.Land Border Crossing. |
The Namibian Immigration took a long time with the immigration officer thoroughly scrutinizing my passport and after that also had my baggage checked at the final exit of customs and onto Namibian soil, country no 85.Katima Mulilo is situated on the banks of the Zambezi river in the Zambezi region formerly called the "Caprivi Strip" when colonized by Germany which is a protruding strip of land in the North Eastern region of Namibia surrounded by Botswana to the south and Angola and Zambia to the North.. Boarded a shared taxi with Mr Gherson. Siwelva alighting at the bus depot to board the 1400 hrs bus to Windhoek and rest of the passengers in main downtown Katima Mulilo which was clean with large malls.
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| Entrance gate to " Kololo Guesthouse "in Katima Mulilo .Situated on the lonesome Katima Mulilo-Windhoek Highway. |
I was finally dropped at "Kololo Guesthouse" which had state of the art high tech security with video camera security and automatic electric opening of main entry gate. Taxi driver Mr John Shoes who was very helpful in briefly explaining Katima Mulilo city during the short drive gave me his phone number in case of future taxi rides and i made my way into this Wild West styled ranch house.
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| In " Kololo Guesthouse " bar quenching my thirst with a beer and making friends with " Troy", the Golden Retriever.The estate resembled a " Wild west" film set. |
Found the reception locked and the entire estate resembled a movie set from a Wild West film,desolate and no one in town! Finally spotted a employee and she directed me to the residence of the owner Ms Sonia.Sandmann , a white Namibian citizen who was expecting me thanks to the logistics of "www.booking.com".I was hungry having eaten nothing since morning and asked for food from the kitchen. Was told that the bar and kitchen open at 1600 hrs as it was now siesta time and everything closed in the Wild West of "Kolola Guesthouse". She showed me my beautiful self contained "Log Hut N0 10 " complete with attached bathe and 2 beds and surprisingly also a air-cooler. Each "Log Hut" is meant for two people or a couple which again exposes one of the disadvantages of "Solo Travel". Ahoy ! The couple Neil and Sonia. Sandmann owned 3 dogs, two Golden retrievers and a wire hair /Jack Russel mix terrier. To quench my thirst was given a draught beer and a bottle of water which was charged into my account. Got comfortable in my Wild West style "Log Hut" and kept abreast with the Internet.After my shower went to the open air bar at 1700 hrs and Mr Sydney the barman explained me the menu which had only "pizza's" of different varieties.Lunch cum dinner was a King size "Namibian Pizza" with draught beer.Got introduced to the three estate dogs, Troy and Heylay the Golden Retrievers and Techno, the Fox/Jack Russel mix terrier.
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| My " Log Hut cabin No 10" in "Kololo Guesthouse".Had a excellent "Air-Cooler" akin to a air conditioner and self contained "Toilet/Bath". Natural green art decor.. |
There were no cat's on the estate as these three were pure guard dog's and ferocious with strangers as also cat's.Ate half the pizza requesting Sydney to keep the other half in storage to be eaten later.One of the disadvantages of "Solo Travel" is that most food served or purchased in takeaway's is meant for 2 people including this king size "Namib Pizza".Later at eight in the night finished the other half of the pizza with great difficulty along with a draft beer.After two almost sleepless nights thanks to mosquito bites in "Fawlty Tower" managed to get my four hours sleep in the cozy air-cooled "Log Hut Cabin" in Kololo Guest house.
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| Downtown Katima Mulilo City Centre.First World shopping Malls. |
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| Plush Malls in Downtown Katima Mulilo |
Wednesday(28/9/2022) Katima Mulilo :- After preparing my coffee/tea which is complimentary in this guesthouse got dressed and at 0730 hrs after a photo shoot with "Techno", the terrier mix breed walked over 1.5 Kms to "Caprivi Adventures". Enquired with the receptionist regarding fishing and found it pointless to fish for 2 hrs at a cost of 2020 ND(Namibian Dollars) as fishing is not my hobby and have yet to catch a free swimming live fish on a bait. Ahoy ! Decided to just walk around downtown Katima Mulilo and use Namibia as a rest stop for rejuvenating my energy as well as updating my travelogue."Kololo Guesthouse" reminds me of the Classic Western film ,"The Good,The Bad and the Ugly" as it is situated in the middle of a semidesert highway leading to Windhoek and devoid of much human movement.
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| Street hawkers selling their products in Downtown Katima Mulilo.. |
Everyone uses a vehicle and car's are leased on rent for backpackers and tourists. I was the odd tourist walking or using a taxi.Taxi's are much cheaper in comparison to Zimbabwe and Zambia. Travel educates.On my way back from "Caprivi Adventurers" spotted the lone grocery mall " U $ave"on this long semi desert highway that had a prominent funeral undertaker, "Angels Funeral Services",4 wheeler repair garage's and a scrap Godown , besides petrol pump's on either side of the highway.Entered " U $ave" mall and purchased a banana and milk carton .Was back in my "Log Cabin" and at 0930 hrs boarded a taxi and went to main downtown Katima Mulilo. Was amazed to find the entire city centre a maze of plush shop's, malls and street hawker's.
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| Fire Wood being sold at " Market Place" in Katima Mulilo Maine shopping Square.The local Namibian Food stalls can be identified by their peculiar ship funnel type architectural design.In " Market place" its the average common Namibian that shops as it is cheaper than the plush malls. |
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| Downtown Katima Mulilo city centre Broad roads and clean with lot Of sand akin to a semidesert. |
Entered a fashion shop named "Style" and purchased a belt as my old belt had broken after years of service.Just jay walked along the plush street akin to any First World city, very much a mirror image of South Africa.Entered a few malls some of which were totally empty and i wonder the economics of so many shop's for such a small population. Namibia is the second least populated Country in the World and strolling along Katima Mulilo itself i could feel the scarcity of humans / per capita area of the city.Prices were reasonable but were all these shop's in the positive side of prosperity with so much competition. Travel educates.Enquired about the shared taxi to Kasane and was guided to "Goma Station" the taxi stand within the large shopping street mall complex of Katima Mulilo.Next spotted a "Kentucky Fried Chicken" takeaway but decided to taste local common Namibian food.
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| In the midst of plush Malls Street vendors Selling second hand clothes on the pavement. |
Entered a small local barber shop and the cost of a common haircut was 50 ND. Enquired about local food and was guided to the "Market Place" frequented by local Black Namibians.These local cafe's are small shop spaces with the roof top resembling the funnel of a ship.Strange design but true. Had a snack of "Fried Tilipia fish/Nshima(pap) " costing 30 ND,cheap and delicious. Was now almost a local Black African except for my brown colour in adapting to change , a habit developed in the Shipping Industry and the fact that authentically i am a loner and hence the model of a "SOLO TRAVELLER". I enjoy my own company.Strange but true.
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| " Tilipia Fish/ Paff snack in local eatery in Marketplace. |
Finally if you see one shopping mall then you have seen them all and entered a food mall and purchased some take-away local food.Boarded a taxi and for 10 ND and not 10 US$ was home away from home in "Kololo Guesthouse".Happy at least i could afford Namibian taxi fares.Was confined to my "Log Cabin" and in the evening again took a long walk to "U$ave" mall and purchased a fruit juice drink, a chocolate and three bananas.On my way back just had a look at the petrol pump situated next to "Kololo Guesthouse" as taxi driver John.Shoes had told me it had a take-away eatery and felt foolish on seeing a excellent take-away 24/7 food/grocery shop in business. I ignored his advice as owner Ms Sonia.Sandmann told me that there was no grocery in the vicinity within a short walking distance. Alway's remember that the average "Taxi Driver's", "Chauffer Drivers", "Pedestrians" and cyclists know their locality better than some of the wealthy class people who always commute in a vehicle only for specific purposes.
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| "Kololo Guesthouse" had three guard dogs, "Troy"and "Heylay" the Golden Retrievers and "Techno", the Fox/Jack Russel mix terrier.Here i am with "Techno" outside the large palatial guesthouse estate.Notice the desert or beach type sand typical of the landscape in Katima Mulilo. |
Shocking that Ms Sonia.Sandmann didn't know a takeaway exists next to the guesthouse and now a total foreigner stranger has to tell her the same. Anyhow thanks to pedestrian long walks in Katima Mulilo felt like a local and also enjoyed myself observing a different culture as well as a mingling of cultures.Later i reported the same to her and she said she meant mall's and not "Petrol Pump Station take-away's " which are numerous with every pump station having a "Take Away" grocery. Ahoy ! It gets cold at night and the cooler fan keeps the mosquitoes away.
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| Sunrise in Katima Mulilo in Namibia and a glimpse of breakfast in my chic " Log Cabin No 10". Russian sausage and 2 eggs purchased from the next door 24/7 petrol pump takeaway. |
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| 24/7 Take away at this highway Petrol pump next to " Kololo Guesthouse ". |
Thursday(29/9/2022) Katima Mulilo :- At daylight walked the short distance to the petrol pump and purchased my breakfast of a large "Russian Sausage" and two boiled eggs.Excellent ambiance in my small "Log Hut" cabin busy on the Internet and listening to some of the best classics of my generation.
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| RED SUNRISE over Katima Mulilo in Namibia. A semi- Desert landscape.Roads are excellent and clean. |
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| Young Jimmy, my Chauffer/guide for the day sightseeing. |
At approximately 0830 stepped out of the estate of "Kololo Guesthouse" and stopped a taxi on the highway with the intention of visiting "Hippo Aquaculture Farm" and at least understand something about the fish breeding Industry.Young Taxi driver Jimmy agreed to transport me to "Hippo Aquaculture Farm" which is about 8 Kms from Kololo Guesthouse.It was a long drive through one of the loneliest roads i have been on,absolutely no sign of humans. Finally reached the huge gate of "Hippo Aquaculture Farm" with no human in sight and thanks to driver Jimmy who personally opened the gate and drove the car into the estate that we managed to enter this palatial lodge cum aquaculture farm.
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| At Hippo Aquaculture Farm |
A young lady was feeding the fish in the barrel shaped fish ponds.I approached her and she allowed me to film her feeding the fish later ringing up the owner about my arrival.The owner a White Namibian Mr Gunther.Hertz arrived at the scene and mistook me to be a buyer of fish farms.He told me that "Covid-19" had ruined tourism and their "Hippo Aquaculture Farm" had closed down and would be sold and occupied by the Namibian Armed Forces.He told me to meet Mr Imran.Vadi in Katima Mulilo who owned a aquaculture farm and taxi driver Jimmy knew the address which was a great relief.Thanked German origin Namibian Mr Gunther.Hertz and drove out of the palatial farm estate that was straight out of a Hollywood or Bollywood film set. Ahoy! After a long drive finally arrived at a auto garage where a heavily built man attired in Pathani costume directed us to the residence of Namibian Imran.Vadi.We were lucky to be at the right place at the right time as he had just arrived from his farm with a van of vegetables
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| Namibian Mr Imran. Vadi resembled a WWE wrestler and thanks to him got to visit a Aquaculture farm which was also a Plantation. |
Mr Imran.Vadi was with his family of kid's and some ladies and resembled a WWE wrestler in his Pathani attire.Asked him if he was of Pakistan origin to which he replied as originally from South Africa but his great ancestors were from Surat in India.He gave me permission to visit his farmhouse and instructed driver Jimmy regarding the directions to his farmhouse situated in Liselo.It was a long drive akin to driving in no-man's land with not a human in sight and the side of the tarmac road filled with soft desert sand.Finally reached Mr Imran.Vadi's farmhouse that was huge, having 4 large fish pond's out of which only two were in use as fish rearing pond's.The caretaker of the farm a Black Namibian guided me through this large farmhouse that had a small goat farm and the fish pond's reminded me of my Paternal Uncle Mr Godwin.Gonsalves's prawn aquaculture farm that he had set up in Mabukala village of Udipi district in Karnataka State of India.Sadly his business went bankrupt after a few years but was a very scenic locale on the backdrop of the Sitanadi river .This farmhouse of Mr Imran.Vadi resembled typical Namibian Cheetah landscape with the surrounding countryside having stunted vegetation and no tall trees, absolute dry and arid .Namibia is the second least populated Country in the World after Mongolia.
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| Part time Agriculturist ? Plucking Lemons from Mr Imran.Vadi's Farm in Liselo. |
He.cultivated vegetables like cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes as well as condiments like pepper.They were big into mango plantation and numerous mango saplings were on display having been just planted.Finally was shown the poultry section which had a few ducks and a goose. Thanked the caretaker for his time in explaining me the farmhouse and headed towards Katima Mulilo city.Its blistering hot sunshine during the day and cold morning's at dawn, typical desert type climate.In the city stopped at "Pick & Pay" mall and collected two beers to balance the blistering heat and headed to home away from home, "Kololo Guesthouse". Although i had not spent a fortune to catch a "Tiger Fish" on a private fishing expedition like my "Animal Planet" fishing hero Mr Jeremy Wade which is the hobby of the super wealthy wildlife sportsmen at least had visited two fish farms and got a idea of Farmhouse cultivation.I myself have inherited my parent's ancestral land in India and owning farmhouses is a race between the ultra wealthy in Mumbai. Travel Educates.Settled my dues with the guesthouse and the "NOMAD" was ready for the next journey to Kasane in Botswana.
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| SUNSET CRUISE on the Chobe River in Kasane.A view of the setting Sun. |
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| Katima Mulilo to Kasane by road Via " Ngoma border".One of the best roads in the World. Our taxi cruised between 100-120 Km/ Hr speed limits. |
Friday(30/9/2022) Departure Katima Mulilo and arrival Kasane in Botswana :- At 0530 hrs bid goodbye to "Kololo Guesthouse" where everyone seemed to have slept, even the guard dog's.On a lonely carbon copy of U.S.A "Highway 66" was lucky to get a taxi with not a human walking along the highway.Was dropped at Gomu Station in Katima Mulilo city centre.Was shocked to see entire City centre asleep, even the lone taxi driver whom i approached for the journey to Kasana.Not a single passenger was in sight.Kept my bag in the taxi and later used the " Standard chartered " ATM to withdraw some money to pay the cab fare of 200 K..The taxi driver Nyambe was a jovial man and i was aghast on seeing myself as the only person wanting to travel to Kasane.
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| Arrival at " Elephant Trail Guesthouse" in Kazungula and befriended " Rambo" the pet Jack Russel Terrier. My best friend during stay in "Elephant Trail Guesthouse" |
From 0600 hrs to 0700 hrs I was at " Gomu station" in need of another passenger whiling my time away just sitting in the taxi and wouldn't be surprise that if not for my Asian looks would have been mistaken for a "Taxi Driver".Later Nyambe drove us to the shopping mall where i purchased some Frech fries, "Russian sausage", roll bread , apple and a banana, my breakfast departure Katima Mulilo.Later we returned back to now familiar "Goma Station" where luckily a elderly lady was the other passenger and at 0830 hrs we began our long drive to Kasane.The road from Katima Mulilo to Ngoma Border was akin to a Formula - 1 racing track and driver Nyambe was clocking between 100-120 Km/hr constant speed on his Nissan car. At 0930 hrs reached Ngoma border and after Namibian immigration formalities drove to the Ngoma (Botswana immigration) just a short distance from Ngoma(Namibia Border post) and got my entry visa stamped into Country No 86, Botswana.The highway from "Ngoma(Botswana Side) to Kasane was similar to the Namibian side of the highway and cruising at 100-120 Km/hr reached Kasane at 1015 hrs . The lady co-passenger alighted at Impalila Jetty to get a immigration stamp to visit Impalila Island
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| Chobe river sunset cruise We all were later transferred to a bigger boat |
.Finally after carting a family's luggage onto his car at the local bus stop in Kasane which was his return journey taxi fare back to Katima Mulilo taxi driver Mr Nyambe drove me the long distance to "Elephant Trail Guesthouse" which was in a isolated location in Kazungula village of Kasane and close to the Zimbabwean border .Entered "Elephant Trail Guesthouse" and was in the midst of a deep jungle in Africa. Honestly in all my stay's in hostel's , hotel's and lodges across the Globe have never come across such a isolated location besides staying in lodges inside national parks in India and in comparison "Kololo Guesthouse" in Katima Mulilo seemed a Downtown location. Ahoy !Receptionist Ms Canny shocked me by saying no tours were available for a single tourist with the minimum number being two, besides, they had no interconnection tour links with other guest houses and lodges as is common among all the city's i have visited. For the first time came across two young Indian tourists Mr Ronaq.Hansora and Mr Jose who were on some work assignment in Botswana.Changed a hundred U.S dollar bill with Mr Ronaq as the bank was in Kasane.They were leaving when I arrived and they had their own vehicle. Receptionist Ms Canny showed me my "Log Hut" cabin similar to "Kololo Guesthouse" but with a common toilet/bathe.My log hut cabin was like a furnace in the afternoon Sun.
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| A fascination for Nile crocodiles. Took a " Selfie " with this beautiful specimen with the copybook National Geographic posture.. |
Lunch was a meal served by the guesthouse and after the meal was told that a slot was available for a "Chobe River Sunset Cruise(1500-1800 hrs)" today and a "Chobe Morning Game Safari(0600-0900 hrs)" tomorrow morning.Cost was 1000 BWP(Pula) where 1U.S $ = 14 BWP .Pounced on the life line as decades of experience taught me that always do something today than postponing it for tomorrow. "Life is so unpredictable and If Tomorrow never comes "! I was haggard having travelled from Namibia to Botswana in the morning and now in the afternoon another schedule of hectic activity.Thanks to young Black Botswanan Mr Steven.Motshegwa who along with his two cousins was residing in this guesthouse on holiday's and had planned these safari tours that i got the opportunity to join a group tour.
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| Tourists viewing wildlife on Sedudu Island from boats. |
A taxi arrived and collected the four of us and it was a long drive to Chobe Riverside.The arrangements were not as plush as the "Zambezi River Sunset Cruise" in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and was in boat filled with young Black Botswanan tourists. Today Friday 30 October also happened to be Botswana Independence day.There were many cruise boats and a few were plush with a "Bar" like the cruise i did in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.Different cruises according to different budgets but ultimately wildlife is the winner and great equalizer as irrespective of the luxury viewing its ultimately the same wildlife visible to every tourist irrespective of wealth or luxury travel.
Some of the World's best video shoots and wildlife photography has been accomplished by total amateur tourists and not professional wildlife photographers who spend day's and a fortune waiting for that million Dollar candid wildlife photo or a video.
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| Botswana has the World's largest population of Elephants and they can be seen in hundreds on Sedudu Island in Chobe National Park. |
We finally set sail with a housefull boat of young Botswanan 's with me being the odd Asian/foreigner in the entire crowd.Mr Baits, a young Botswanan was our guide who insisted on speaking in Botswanan language as it was Botswanan Independence day.
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| View of the marshy land and waterway during the Chobe River cruise. |
Later after the boat began its voyage he fluctuated between English and Botswanan realizing that a lone Non- Botswanan tourist was in the crowd.All tourist boat's have to get permission for cruising along Sedudu Island situated on the Chobe River and so after the respective formalities ,received permission and we cruised along Sedudu Island.For the first time in my life saw herds of elephants akin to common cattle.Botswana has the World's largest concentration of wild elephants in the World in Chobe National Park. Also spotted a large herd of buffaloes and thanks to my binoculars which compensated a " SLR Camera " the view was indescribable. Spotted large Nile crocodiles basking on land with a large pair far out on land on Sedudu Island literally in the midst of a herd of elephants. Could spot these two crocodiles through binoculars otherwise from a distance they resembled dead logs of tree stumps.
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| Herds of Impala and a few Kudu on the main land of Chobe National Park |
Cruising on the periphery of Sedudu Island spotted a large Nile Crocodile basking near the shore with its mouth wide open.Took our boat on the sand and got a chance to observe this giant from just a few meters.Resembled a statue and had just shut its mouth due to possibly our boats presence.Just a few meters from our boat took a "Selfie" with this Nile crocodile understanding its prowess in water having done "Crocodile cage diving" in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Impala's were very common and also spotted Kudu but no giraffes , zebras or wildebeest. Later we came across a elephant and it's young near the shore and on approaching them by boat the baby elephant panicked and both mother and calf kept a good distance away from our boat.Elephant hunting or culling as they call it is legal in Botswana and probably the herd intelligence makes these elephants vary of too close a human presence.
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| " Braggers rights club " :- We all love clicking " SELFIES " with prominent personalities politicians, celebrities or just our common friends. Here is my " SELFIE " with a pair of Wild Buffalo just 30 meters away from our boat with me on the boat's bow.They are staring at us.YES I TOOK A SELFIE WOTH ONE OF AFRICA'S BIG 5 |
The pick of our shore based sighting according to me was probably the old pair of Bull Buffaloes we spotted and approached sitting a few meters away from each other and only 30 meters from our boat.I was staring at the face of one of Africa's " BIG 5" and also most dangerous animal although a herbivore.
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| A female tusker and her calf flee our approaching boat. |
Both the buffaloes first ignored our presence but later one of them got up and then the other and both gave our boat the " Death Stare".What if they charged at our boat with me being right in front near the boat's bow and hence could be the first casualty. Guide Baits told me that if I stepped out of the boat onto Sedudu Island they would definitely charge at me.These two old bull buffaloes must have definitely survived lion attacks or seen other buffaloes becoming victims of lion's and now on their own away from the herd.I doubt both would die a natural death through " old age" as nature is cruel and once very weak would become a meal of a predator.This is nature.Even the mighty king of the jungle, the lion in Africa rarely dies a natural death unless due to disease.It is either killed in territorial fights with other lions or dies of starvation, unable to hunt in old age finally becoming a victim of hyena's.
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| A large Darter swallowing a large fish.Unbelievable sight as i was observing through binoculars and presumed the bird would spit out the fish or choke to death. |
On our way back came across a scene straight out of a "National Geographic" wildlife documentary with a large Darter bird trying to swallow a large fish it had just caught.
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| Chobe Sunset Cruise:- Largest herd of Elephants on view. |
Had the Darter bitten off more than it could swallow ? With my binoculars got a close-up view of the entire sequence of events and thought the bird would choke to death.Finally akin to a python it elongated its long neck upwards and with great difficulty swallowed this large fish.A photographer with a "SLR Camera" could have clicked a award winning photograph of this large darter swallowing a large fish that seemed impossible to swallow.Nature is unbelievable at times.We finally got to observe "SUNSET" across the Chobe river that gave different views as our boat chugged along the river .All good things have to come to a end and finally from the cruise boat we were on firm land for departure by taxi back to "Elephant Trail Guesthouse".The weather is cool at night and burning hot sunshine during the afternoon and daytime.Thankfully there was not much of a mosquito menace and my "Log Hut" cabin with a single fan was the ideal setting for a good 3-4 hrs sleep. It was akin to sleeping in A/C during the night .
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| WHO WANTS TO BE A MILLIONAIRE BY SPOTTING A LEOPARD ON A BRANCH OF THIS TREE ? The leopard was the only big cat that I hadn't seen in the wild and today all tourist Landcruiser's in this midmorning (0600 - 0900 hrs ) batch hit the " Wildlife Jackpot".This leopard lay sleeping on this branch least bothered about numerous tourists watching it from below.A picture perfect model. |
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| "Chobe National Park " Morning Safari(0600-0900 hrs) |
Saturday(1/10/2022) Kazungula ,Botswana :- At 0530 hrs was dressed and ready at the guesthouse reception for the morning safari to Chobe National Park.Co-Resident Mr Steven.Motshewga along with his two cousin's, a young lady and a young man also arrived at the reception and finally at 0545 hrs our "Toyota Safari van" arrived with Driver/Guide Mr Peekay.It was a long drive and on the way picked up a couple and at approx 0615 hrs nearing a town juction came across two wild boars sizing each other and ready for a fight, akin to a cock fight.This was happening right in the middle of a small town square with no people around as it was early morning.This sight can only be seen on the African continent.These two were huge wild boars with long tusks and after a Cape Buffalo these wild boars are most dangerous when cornered or injured. Our last pick-up was a a young Chinese couple.Finally we arrived at the Sedudu entry gate of "Chobe National Park" that was housefull with tourist van's.Registration of all tourists and van's is required at entry into "Chobe National Park" akin to the "Ferry Cruise safari" we had yesterday.
Entering the Chobe National Park our first sighting was a lone hyena that darted across our forest road , first time saw a hyena in the wild
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| Wild Boars in middle of street ready for a brawl.Akin to a "Cock-Fight". |
.In India have been on numerous safari's as also recently in Africa at " Akagera Game reserve" near Kigali in Rwanda and Nairobi National Park as a young child in 1960's.We spotted numerous herds of Impala very common in Africa and legally sold as " Game meat" which i tasted in Livingstone and found horrible in taste..Spotted elephants as usual but this time on dry ground in the forest.For birdwatcher's this would have been paradise with various species of birds flying around early in the morning. The most common bird was the Guinea fowl seen akin to chickens across the forest floor.Spotted Hippo's , Kudu but no sign of the " Big 2" carnivores of Africa, the lion or the leopard. Wild life safari is pure luck akin to a lottery irrespective of the competence of your guide or the size of your wealth or status. Sighting of rare species is pure chance.
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| Sedudu entrance gate of " Chobe National park. |
Was my African Safari going to end without sighting a leopard or a lion ? Even in Akagera in Rwanda did not spot the Big 2 Carnivores although in Nairobi National Park way back as a kid in 1960's vividly remember seeing Cheetah's. Our Toyota land cruiser romped through the forest pathways with not a sign of the existence of a lion or the more elusive leopard.All i saw were the usual wild life suspects that I have been seeing since the Sunset River Cruise on the Zambezi and now in Chobe where sightings were much better due to Sedudu Island approachable by the cruise boats. Now doing the land safari was a bit different as the Safari van's cruise the forest land parallel to the Chobe River.
As the van moves across the forest which is on higher ground one gets a panoramic view of Sedudu Island and the wildlife existing on this island.
As we were weaving along the forest track spotting elephant's , Impala's at about 0750 hrs we suddenly came across a tourist van traffic jam on the forest track.
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| Elephants foraging on tree stumps. |
As we were weaving along the forest track spotting elephant's , Impala's at about 0750 hrs we suddenly came across a tourist van traffic jam on the forest track.
Ahoy ! A leopard had been sighted on a branch on top of a tree.and was hoping that when our turn for viewing arrived the leopard would still be at the same spot on this tree.When our turn came it was a sight straight out of a documentary wildlife scene seen on all those wildlife channels and wildlife nature books, a leopard sleeping on a branch of a big tree.African leopards are larger than Indian leopards and have brighter coloured spots. Thanks to binoculars got a closeup view of this most handsome wild leopard that reminded me of my late 13 year old Persian cat " Matahari" back home in Mumbai.
He was sleeping clasping the branch with both his paws akin to my cat " Matahari" when she would sit on our gallery ledge 5 floors from ground level holding the gallery railing with her paws. No wonder cats are called " Miniature Big Cats" and I am witness to the same having lived with cat's as pets and now for the first time in my life seeing a leopard display copycat behavior habit of a common cat. This particular leopard was young and in the prime of its life as could be visualized by its bright fur and face when it once lifted its head to look down at the large number of safari van's and humans below this tree.Finally at the young age of 62 years had spotted a leopard in the wild and that too the perfect " CAT MODEL" sitting aloof on top of a tree branch.
Finally bid goodbye to our " Big Cat Model" and headed towards the rest station of the park where all tourist van's stopped for tea and usage of the toilets.After our tea we headed back towards the starting point and passed by the leopard at 0845 hrs that was still asleep on his tree top branch bed a copycat of my late house cat "Matahari"..Tourists today were lucky to spot one of the most elusive of the " Big 5" wildlife of Africa so easily and that too the perfect view.This leopard's photo would definitely be on some International travel magazine, a poster card perfect picture.On our return journey came across a herd of Hippo's grazing on land near a small pond next to the Chobe river and playing with each other. First time I saw Hippo's out of water on land in the natural wild.Came across a elephant chewing on a tree stump and stopped near it just a few meters away.Spotted a pair of jackals come out in the open scaring away the Guinea fowls in the vicinity.While driving suddenly without warning a herd of elephants crossed our path about 50 meters ahead.
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| Tourist Landcruiser's in a circle below the tree on which the leopard is sleeping. |
He was sleeping clasping the branch with both his paws akin to my cat " Matahari" when she would sit on our gallery ledge 5 floors from ground level holding the gallery railing with her paws. No wonder cats are called " Miniature Big Cats" and I am witness to the same having lived with cat's as pets and now for the first time in my life seeing a leopard display copycat behavior habit of a common cat. This particular leopard was young and in the prime of its life as could be visualized by its bright fur and face when it once lifted its head to look down at the large number of safari van's and humans below this tree.Finally at the young age of 62 years had spotted a leopard in the wild and that too the perfect " CAT MODEL" sitting aloof on top of a tree branch.
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| Hippo's at play on land as well as in the pond near the Chobe River. |
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| How often do you get to click a " SELFIE " with a " Big 5" of Africa in the natural wild environment? |
Finally bid goodbye to our " Big Cat Model" and headed towards the rest station of the park where all tourist van's stopped for tea and usage of the toilets.After our tea we headed back towards the starting point and passed by the leopard at 0845 hrs that was still asleep on his tree top branch bed a copycat of my late house cat "Matahari"..Tourists today were lucky to spot one of the most elusive of the " Big 5" wildlife of Africa so easily and that too the perfect view.This leopard's photo would definitely be on some International travel magazine, a poster card perfect picture.On our return journey came across a herd of Hippo's grazing on land near a small pond next to the Chobe river and playing with each other. First time I saw Hippo's out of water on land in the natural wild.Came across a elephant chewing on a tree stump and stopped near it just a few meters away.Spotted a pair of jackals come out in the open scaring away the Guinea fowls in the vicinity.While driving suddenly without warning a herd of elephants crossed our path about 50 meters ahead.
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| Inside " Chobe National Park" with Chobe river in the background and on the other side Sedudu Island |
Now I understand the meaning " ELEPHANT CORRIDOR" and the reason for elephant casualties while crossing roads or railway tracks especially in my home Country, India. Our last sighting was a group of mongoose and just nearing the end sighted the rare Kori Bustard.Finally at approximately 0930 hrs our safari came to a end and all tourists were dropped at their respective lodges/ Guesthouses.In the afternoon taking guidance from receptionist Ms Canny decided to visit the Kazungula mall. Walking along the desert type hot Sun was lucky to geta lift from a lady who was also visiting the mall with her kids.Thanked her and was surprised to find a huge shopping mall at Kazungula. Purchased my lunch as well as other provisions and headed back to destination " Elephant Guesthouse " on a taxi fare of 40 Pulas driven by a lady taxi driver .Spent the entire evening at this isolated forest farmhouse and not surprised if a lion or a " Black Mamba" would show up in the vicinity. Early morning at 0230 -0300 hrs could hear the cooing of wild doves in my log cabin as also the cockrels crowing , absolute blend of nature with human habitation. The most isolated hostel/ Hotel or guesthouse I have lived in but otherwise excellent in all other respects in comparison to the rentals.
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| A short speed boat journey across Chobe river from Kasane in Botswana to Impalila Island in Namibia. In a span of just half an hour had visited another country.Amazing experience . |
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| Historic Baobab tree situated in front of Kasane Police Station. |
Sunday(2/10/2022) Kazungula :- It's chill cold early in the morning.After my self prepared breakfast a la American style decided to explore Kasane Town and Impalila Island in Namibia.A couple living in the hostel were leaving by taxi and thanks to Mr Yuhi .Oduetse and his wife got a shared taxi and reached Kasane Town.Later told the taxi driver to leave me at Kasane Police station and on alighting inquired about Kasane's landmark " Baobab tree".As it was Sunday and hence a Public holiday the entire street was deserted and no one to approach for guidance. Mistook a huge Baobab tree behind the police station as the historic landmark but didn't find any historical literature plaques next to this tree, besides, it was not hollow in its centre .Walked to a police patrol car and the policeman showed me the historic tree which was just in front of my eyes at the main entrance to " Kasane Police Station ".I was the only tourist at the site and as usual took photographs and a small educative video.It was blazing hot and from the Kasane Police Station walked a short distance to the Immigration/ Customs at the Jetty for boats heading to Impalila Island in Namibia. At 1100 hrs entered the immigration office where the only person on duty was the immigration officer herself.She examined my passport and stamped on it for departure to Impalila Island in Namibia.
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| At Kasane Police Station in front of the historic Baobab tree.Notice the hollow opening inside the tree trunk. |
Tourists are allowed a day visit to Impalila Island in Namibia without a visa as this island is easily accessible from Botswana than from Namibia and hence just decided to have a boat ride and examine what was the specialty of a small Island named Impalila situated on the Chobe river .Tourists are given a one day permit and the immigration office opens at 0800 hrs and closes at 1545 and hence a tourist should return from Impilila island before closure of the Immigration office at 1545 hrs.If you overstay then there is a hefty fine.Next hurdle was getting a speed boat taxi as being a Sunday there was almost negligible local passenger's except for a few tourists who hired private boats and others visiting some other island on the Chobe river.There are numerous plush lodges on the Chobe Riverside.At the Jetty inquired for a boat taxi and finally a Boat driver arriving with a canoe speedboat full of passengers from another island agreed to ferry me to Impalila Island as he had space for just one passenger and this was a instance where solo travel was to my advantage.
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| On Impalila Island in Namibia |
Finally at 1125 hrs we left Kasane Boat jetty and headed to Impalila Island.Came across a lone Hippo that surfaced on this deceptively calm river and passed alongside a few plush riverside lodges.Spotted a few locals fishing along the riverside and approaching Impalila Island came across some rocks on the river which had numerous aquatic birds as also nesting birds on a tree in the middle of this small strip of boulder rocks that was the boundary between Botswana and Namibia. Finally at 1140 hrs arrived on Impalila Island, a speed boat journey of just 15 minutes. Was totally disappointed on stepping ashore on Impalila Island as it just seemed a barren Island with a lone bull grazing on the grassland near the boat jetty.Told the boat driver i would be just visiting the immigration and returning soon for without passengers getting the return boat back to Kasane would be difficult.From the boat jetty had to walk up the island along a rocky path in the hot blazing Sun and luckily the "Namibia Cutom/Immigration" was not a very long walk from the boat jetty
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| Back from Impalila Island in Namibia to Kasane in Botswana. Shortest travel between two Countries. With Mr & Mrs Brian & Igna Simataa |
The Namibian Immigration officer stamped my entry/exit at the same time and told me that a vehicle was required to visit the small villages located in the interior of this island.Tourists usually did this and some stayed on the island.While returning saw a elderly lady approach the customs and to my surprise she was none other than Mrs Igna.Simataa who was the lady passenger on the taxi journey from Katima Mulilo to Kasane.She and her husband Mr Brian.Simataa were heading back to Katima Mulilo and we travelled back to Kasane Jetty on the same boat.Life is bizarre at times .Finally at 1210 hrs was back from Namibia to Botswana,my shortest trip and shortest stay in another country.In less than a hour had travelled between two Countries.
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| My " Log Hut Cabin " in Elephant Trail Guesthouse Burning hot in afternoon Sun |
Got my entry into Botswana stamped at the " Boat Jetty Immigration Counter" and boarded a taxi requesting the lady driver to stop at " Spa mall" a short distance away to purchase food.After purchasing my take-away it was a long drive back to " Elephant Trail Guesthouse and Lodge" with the taxi fare amounting to 33 Pulas.Strangely all the taxi drivers i encountered in Kasane were driven by lady drivers and one lady was also the owner of four taxi's saying it was a lucrative business.Relaxed in my home away from home " Elephant Trail Guesthouse and Lodge" with " Rambo", the hilarious and greedy Jack Russel Terrier my constant companion.In fact there were two pet dogs with the other dog a Australian terrier named " Mimi " shy and confined mostly to the owner's house. Met the owner of " Elephant Trail Guesthouse and Lodge " Mr Eduardo.Ramirez a Chilean whose wife was Black Botswanan and owned the guesthouse in which they lived with their pets.In the evening met a young German couple on holiday to join their relatives who were arriving in Botswana after a world tour. A elderly couple from Paris on a road safari in Africa was also at the dinner table preparing their own dinner and plans for their road journey to their next destination.As a " solo Traveller" have never ever felt lonely or bored always interacting with co-resident travellers and exchanging personal opinions of travel.Had my normal 3- 4 hrs sleep with the night chill cold but thankfully devoid of the mosquito menace.
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| 4 year old baby crocodiles on " Crocodile Farm "in Kazangula village of Kasane in Botswana. |
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| Entrance gate of " Crocodile Farm" in Kazungula village of Kasane |
Monday(3/10/2022) Kazangula :- I was now a veteran in preparing my own breakfast, something I never did back home in Mumbai .At breakfast met Dutchman Mr Sidney.Tailford who had tattoos all over his exposed body.He was a tattoo artist by profession having his tattoo shop in England.Although a Dutch citizen he lived mostly in England and told me tattoo artist's had good business although seasonal,,mostly during the European summer months.. After breakfast decided to visit " Crocodile Farm" and hence had a short walk to the main bifurcation road where I stopped a taxi and on a hire of 40 Pulas was driven to the gates of " Crocodile Farm".
Entry charge was 100 Pulas and a employee guided me inside the farm that had many dogs which included a Dachshund and a Mastiff.
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| Crocodile breeding and Crocodile awareness education on "Crocodile Farm in Kazungula Village education to common tourists/Students |
The employee took me to a large hallway having Circular fish tank wells that contained crocodiles. . Was introduced to Ms Pedzani,the caretaker and employee of this crocodile farm.She explained me the different crocodiles in different waterless tanks.One tank had only baby crocodiles which were 4 years old." Moremi" who is supposed to be over 100 years old is the prized breeding crocodile of this farm.The next crocodile of importance " Mr Big Boy" is the second oldest crocodile on the farm at supposedly 90 years of age. She feeds each large crocodile about 15 chickens once in three months.This particular hall exhibit of the crocodiles was used for student and tourist tours and hence illustrations on the walls explaining the life facts of the crocodile. I was next taken to the outdoors breeding pond enclosures which had numerous crocodiles including females guarding their eggs buried in sand.The females guarding the eggs are very protective and aggressive and one female close to the fence almost charged at me when I went too close. Pedzani told me to keep my distance from the female crocodile as they can also leap a few feet and grab their prey as seen in wildlife documentaries which in this present situation could be my limb.
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| View of one " Breeding Enclosure " on Crocodile Farm ."Mr Big Boy" rules this enclosure. |
She showed me the two different enclosures in which " Mr Big Boy" and " Moremi" were kept and finally while departing met the owner, a white Botswanan citizen Ms Sue.Slogrove who was grinding and welding a metal bench using her overalls.She explained me her farm and the crocodile industry in Africa which is big commercial business. Crocodile meat is sold akin to poultry and its leather is a source for most fashion houses dealing in fancy leather products.Crocodlie meat is considered medicinal and Sue told me that having crocodile meat twice a week will keep a person healthy. Crocodiles are immune to diseases which has perplexed scientists and in the wild die either due to cannibalism or fights during mating..
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| With Ms Sue.Slogrove Owner of "Crocodile Farm " and one of her guard dogs |
Crocodiles are estimated to live above 100 years and Sue.Slogrove's farmhouse has 800 crocodiles with a stock of 60 breeding crocodiles producing a average of 3000 baby crocodiles per year. Sue surprised me by saying that her farm was small in comparison to some farms that had 30,000 or more crocodiles . Her prized and most famous crocodile on her farm was " Nelson" who lived over 100 years of age expiring in 2004 and was also pictured on the stamp of Botswana.Her "Crocodile Farm" employs many locals from Kazangula village..Ms Sue.Slogrove lived all alone on this massive crocodile farm having her dog's as guards as well as a rifle for personal protection which she has boldly advertised on her main entrance gate. This is wild Africa.Thanked owner Ms Sue.Slogrove and made my way out of the crocodile farm.With great difficulty got a taxi and drove to the mall for purchasing food and then back to home away from home.My Log cabin was like a oven in the afternoon and siesta time was in the open air dining lounge busy on my laptop and the internet while the two joker dogs "Rambo" and "Mimi" loitered in the vicinity. A writer akin to a artist ,whether a best seller or a starving writer is never ever bored in the company of solitude.In the afternoon was surprised to see a " Yamaha 360" and a " KTM 690" with cruising luggage packed on the bikes parked along the driveway of the guesthouse.
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| A photo shoot with the Austrian Rider's bikes at "Elephant Trail Guesthouse". Cruising on bikes across Africa. . |
Met the Austrian owner Mr Lackner of " Asia- Bike- tours" who conducted bike tours in Asia most prominently in the Leh - Ladakh region of India.Comedian Jack Russell terrier " Rambo" behaved as if he was my pet, very friendly and always greedy for food morsels but his compatriot Australian terrier " Mimi" was very reserved and came only at food time.Had my normal night's sleep with the occasional cooing of doves outside my log hut and sometimes the village cockerels crowing,typical African village lifestyle.
Tuesday(4/10/2022) Departure Kasane in Botswana and arrival at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe :- My last morning in "Elephant Trail Guesthouse and Backpackers" in Kazungula village of Kasane which was akin to living in a forest farmhouse.Made numerous acquaintances throughout my travel across four country's in Africa and among the memories i would cherish from this guest house was the antics of hilarious canine joker "Rambo".After breakfast told receptionist Ms Chifo to ring up for a taxi and at 0915 hrs bid goodbye to "Elephant Trail Guesthouse and Backpackers" heading to "Kazungula Border Post(Botswana)".
On the way stopped at the Kazungula Mall to exchange a few pula's back to U.S Dollars.It was a short drive from the guesthouse towards Kazungula border and on the route came across two diversion's on the main road . One of the diversion road leads to the "Kazungula Bridge" over the Zambezi river that links Botswana and Zambia and which opened to traffic in May 2021. Note :- The "QUADRIPOINT" where supposedly the imaginary boundary lines of Zimbabwe,Zambia,Botswana and Namibia meet is somewhere along this bridge.area and popular for tourist visits. We took the diversion road leading to Kazungula border of "Botswana-Zimbabwe" and was finally at Botswana - Kazungula border post with the taxi fare amounting to 50 Pulas.While removing my trolley suitcase from the taxi the bag carrier handle snapped along with its base and luckily the entire suitcase did not disintegrate.. The main adjustable long handle was intact and hence the trolley bag functional as a suitcase.Immigration check through the Kazungula Botswana Border" was a simple process of submitting the passport and getting it stamped.From the "Kazungula Botswana Border Post" exit it was a moderate long walk to "Kazungula Zimbabwe Border Post ". To my horror there was a long queue at the entrance to the immigration counter on the Zimbabwe Border post.A chartered bus load of Caucasian tourists were in a hurry to get their immigration clearance and there was a little chaos regarding the queue.
I was the odd Asian among a sea of Caucasian's, mostly British tourists and a few tried to bully me regarding the queue formation as they were in a group tour.Stood my ground and finally after a hour in the queue got my immigration stamped which was a matter of a few minutes and finally walked into Zimbabwe.A taxi driver approached me for a shared taxi and made a deal of U.S $10 for the same but had to wait for another half an hour till he collected his other three passengers and their luggage.While waiting for the taxi whiled away my time at a local food seller pavement shop when suddenly i saw a wild boar casually walking towards me onto the road later followed by three other wild boars akin to stray dogs roaming the street.They vanished into the dense undergrowth on the other side of the highway.A local told me that this was a common sight in this vicinity as these boars foraged for waste food left by humans akin to common feral pigs.Hiring a entire taxi would have cost me U.S $ 50 and was extremely lucky to get this shared taxi to Victoria Falls.
Finally we four passengers began our 80 Km drive to Victoria Falls.At 1230 hrs reached the outskirts of Victoria Falls and arrived at Mkosana Township where two of the passengers alighted.
Got a idea of the economic difference in living standards among the Zimbabweans as this township had mass cottage style housing slightly larger then the log hut's i stayed in at Katima Mulilo and later Kasane ,definitely for the lower economic section of Zimbabweans. There were numerous mango tree's in this small township designed like the former mass communist housing system of the U.S.S.R.Finally reached familiar "Shoestring Backpackers Lodge" and was allotted "Mopane Dormitory" next to "Accacia Dormitory ", the one i stayed on my first arrival in Victoria Falls.'Mopane Dormitory" was tiny in comparison with "Accacia dormitory" having only 6 beds but totally empty with me the only occupant in " Bed No 2" .
To my surprise a large group of Caucasian girls and boys from England were now resident in "Accacia Dormitory", back to boarding lifestyle .
Familiar with the locality immediately walked to "O K" supermarket and purchased my frugal lunch with a beer and a orange fruit.After lunch did my "Aqua Yoga" in the small pool and loosened my exhausted leg joints."Shoestring Backpackers Lodge" was housefull with Caucasian tourists and music round the clock with the swimming pool also being occupied to capacity due to the blazing afternoon Sun.. Was busy on the internet simultaneously watching the "India V/S South Africa" T-20 match on "T.V" .Saw for the first time two young Caucasian girls performing synchronized swimming in the pool. Otherwise it was always seen on T.V during the Olympics or aquatic sports.
Today being Tuesday was the weekly "U.S $ 5 Amakhosi Night" at "Shoestring Backpacker Lodge" and preparations of guests arriving was in progress with the two "Pool Tables" being occupied as "Pool" is a very popular sport among Zimbabweans. .It was a wonderful evening of " AMAKHOSI NIGHT " that began at 1900 hrs and since I had seen their performance during my previous stay at " Shoestring Backpackers " understood,appreciated and enjoyed the dance sequence better.At the bar tried the " Jager shot"cocktail that was something different. Later also joined in the tribal " Tom- Tom Drumming " where the audience joins the tribal performers in their dance sequence.
Dinner was " Chicken/ Rice" and later just relaxed in the garden lounge watching the youngsters enjoy the evening. " Hookah" was being smoked and a young group of boys and girls splashed into the swimming pool which is shallow and hence not dangerous after downing a few drinks..Later went to my tiny " Mopane Dormitory " that resembled a ship's cabin and thanks to the fan had a mosquito free 3 hrs night sleep .
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| Kazungula Border post(Botswana Side ) |
On the way stopped at the Kazungula Mall to exchange a few pula's back to U.S Dollars.It was a short drive from the guesthouse towards Kazungula border and on the route came across two diversion's on the main road . One of the diversion road leads to the "Kazungula Bridge" over the Zambezi river that links Botswana and Zambia and which opened to traffic in May 2021. Note :- The "QUADRIPOINT" where supposedly the imaginary boundary lines of Zimbabwe,Zambia,Botswana and Namibia meet is somewhere along this bridge.area and popular for tourist visits. We took the diversion road leading to Kazungula border of "Botswana-Zimbabwe" and was finally at Botswana - Kazungula border post with the taxi fare amounting to 50 Pulas.While removing my trolley suitcase from the taxi the bag carrier handle snapped along with its base and luckily the entire suitcase did not disintegrate.. The main adjustable long handle was intact and hence the trolley bag functional as a suitcase.Immigration check through the Kazungula Botswana Border" was a simple process of submitting the passport and getting it stamped.From the "Kazungula Botswana Border Post" exit it was a moderate long walk to "Kazungula Zimbabwe Border Post ". To my horror there was a long queue at the entrance to the immigration counter on the Zimbabwe Border post.A chartered bus load of Caucasian tourists were in a hurry to get their immigration clearance and there was a little chaos regarding the queue.
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| Amakhosi Night entertainment at the one and only " Shoestrings Backpackers " |
I was the odd Asian among a sea of Caucasian's, mostly British tourists and a few tried to bully me regarding the queue formation as they were in a group tour.Stood my ground and finally after a hour in the queue got my immigration stamped which was a matter of a few minutes and finally walked into Zimbabwe.A taxi driver approached me for a shared taxi and made a deal of U.S $10 for the same but had to wait for another half an hour till he collected his other three passengers and their luggage.While waiting for the taxi whiled away my time at a local food seller pavement shop when suddenly i saw a wild boar casually walking towards me onto the road later followed by three other wild boars akin to stray dogs roaming the street.They vanished into the dense undergrowth on the other side of the highway.A local told me that this was a common sight in this vicinity as these boars foraged for waste food left by humans akin to common feral pigs.Hiring a entire taxi would have cost me U.S $ 50 and was extremely lucky to get this shared taxi to Victoria Falls.
Finally we four passengers began our 80 Km drive to Victoria Falls.At 1230 hrs reached the outskirts of Victoria Falls and arrived at Mkosana Township where two of the passengers alighted.
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| Mkosana Township, a suburb of Victoria Falls . Numerous mango trees in this township. |
Got a idea of the economic difference in living standards among the Zimbabweans as this township had mass cottage style housing slightly larger then the log hut's i stayed in at Katima Mulilo and later Kasane ,definitely for the lower economic section of Zimbabweans. There were numerous mango tree's in this small township designed like the former mass communist housing system of the U.S.S.R.Finally reached familiar "Shoestring Backpackers Lodge" and was allotted "Mopane Dormitory" next to "Accacia Dormitory ", the one i stayed on my first arrival in Victoria Falls.'Mopane Dormitory" was tiny in comparison with "Accacia dormitory" having only 6 beds but totally empty with me the only occupant in " Bed No 2" .
To my surprise a large group of Caucasian girls and boys from England were now resident in "Accacia Dormitory", back to boarding lifestyle .
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| " BAR" of " Shoestrings Backpackers ". The Hippest locale in Victoria Falls. |
Familiar with the locality immediately walked to "O K" supermarket and purchased my frugal lunch with a beer and a orange fruit.After lunch did my "Aqua Yoga" in the small pool and loosened my exhausted leg joints."Shoestring Backpackers Lodge" was housefull with Caucasian tourists and music round the clock with the swimming pool also being occupied to capacity due to the blazing afternoon Sun.. Was busy on the internet simultaneously watching the "India V/S South Africa" T-20 match on "T.V" .Saw for the first time two young Caucasian girls performing synchronized swimming in the pool. Otherwise it was always seen on T.V during the Olympics or aquatic sports.
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| "Amakhosi Night" at Shoestrings " when the music changes,so also does the dance"- African Proveb. |
Today being Tuesday was the weekly "U.S $ 5 Amakhosi Night" at "Shoestring Backpacker Lodge" and preparations of guests arriving was in progress with the two "Pool Tables" being occupied as "Pool" is a very popular sport among Zimbabweans. .It was a wonderful evening of " AMAKHOSI NIGHT " that began at 1900 hrs and since I had seen their performance during my previous stay at " Shoestring Backpackers " understood,appreciated and enjoyed the dance sequence better.At the bar tried the " Jager shot"cocktail that was something different. Later also joined in the tribal " Tom- Tom Drumming " where the audience joins the tribal performers in their dance sequence.
Dinner was " Chicken/ Rice" and later just relaxed in the garden lounge watching the youngsters enjoy the evening. " Hookah" was being smoked and a young group of boys and girls splashed into the swimming pool which is shallow and hence not dangerous after downing a few drinks..Later went to my tiny " Mopane Dormitory " that resembled a ship's cabin and thanks to the fan had a mosquito free 3 hrs night sleep .
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| "Victoria Falls Stock Exchange" in downtown Victoria Falls.Post retirement from the "Merchant Navy" its investments that have kept me afloat and i always advice salaried novices to stay ahead of "INFLATION" by investing a part of their income in good quality stocks or mutual funds.WARNING :- Investments in Stocks requires a " GAMBLERS APTITUDE " and knowledge of the company's.In India i am canvassing to legalize "SPORTS BETTING" which is legal in all African Country's i have visited." SPORTS BETTING" is akin to "DAY TRADING" on the Stock Market. |
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| Funeral mass and burial at "Our Lady of Peace" Catholic Church in Victoria Falls |
Wednesday(5/10/2022) Victoria Falls :- Officially got up at daybreak and at 0700 hrs ventured out into the street to purchase some breakfast from "O.K Mall" and to my dismay found everything closed.On my way back saw a priest standing near the entrance of the church and on entering the compound realized i was in the midst of a funeral mass.Entered the church which resembled a chapel reminding me of the Haines Road Catholic cemetery in my home city of Mumbai.Seemed to be a wealthy Black Zimbabwean's funeral as there were a lot of vehicles including a Mercedes Benz and the mourners and worshippers were all well dressed in funeral attire .Death is a great equalizer, rich or poor, famous, infamous or anonymous.
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| " Covid -19" literally killed the tourism Industry across the Globe including Victoria Falls. The " Snake pit", once popular has closed business |
Breakfast was the normal " Egg/Bacon roll" with Tangada tea at my home away from home with " CHICKEN" snoozing like Royalty on the couch. Some goats are more equal. Ahoy !At 0930 hrs ventured out of the home away from home and saw a crowd outside the Catholic church. On enquiry was told that a young girl child of nine years named Christabella had expired and hence the large group of mourners very similar to funerals in my home city of Mumbai.R.I.P Christabella.Bizzare coincidence that a day before departure from Mumbai my house caretaker Sabina's 69 year old sister Maria(Ludin) had expired and now here in distant Victoria Falls a day before my departure i come across the funeral of a Zimbabwean. Was becoming unemotional akin to a "MEDICAL PRACTITIONER DOCTOR" or a "UNDERTAKER" whose profession involves dealing with death's. Truth is stranger than fiction.From the church walked the usual familiar road to Downtown Victoria Falls.
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| A plush butcher shop," The Butchers Daughter" in Downtown Victoria Falls |
Enquired about leather belts and was offered Wild buffalo and elephant leather belts for U.S $ 35 at a official wild life handicraft shop in Downtown Victoria Falls.Probably fake's as the owner was willing to reduce prices on bargaining, but all handicraft shop's officially sell a few wild life products."Covid-19" has affected the tourism Industry in Victoria Falls badly with the fact that some popular attractions have closed down post "Covid-19" .My tour research in Mumbai made me search for the "Snake-Pit", a private snake zoo, but on arriving in Victoria Falls was told it had closed down post "Covid-19" pandemic and was sad to see a very well maintained shop from the exterior with advertisements of snakes closed for viewers.
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| Downtown Plush Victoria Falls City with a view of " Victoria Falls Stock Exchange " Building. |
Entered "Shearwater Travels" that are a dominant tourist agency in Victoria Falls and the pioneers of "White Water Rafting" in Victoria Falls.They had a "Line Diagram" of the circuit of "Victoria Falls-Zambezi River White Water Rafting" and hence inquired the price and distance covered on the raft.The total distance covered is 28 Km with point No 19 being the end point of the US $ 120 "White Water Rafting" extreme adventure sport. As for me ,23 years of Onn-Off sea sailing on various "Merchant Ships" most notably the "Bombay High Supply Vessels" during Monsoon season was akin to "White Water Rafting".A sailor's life is tough on any sailing ship although monetarily extremely well compensated. Walking along plush Downtown Victoria Falls came across a "First World" style butcher's shop named " The Butchers Daughter" and in home city Mumbai my only job besides keeping track of "Investments", a work from home propriety job is daily visiting the meat and fish market for daily food products..The Manager of the shop was a young White Zimbabwean and he explained me the various types of beef,chicken and lamb along with their prices.Cheapest Beef quality was US$ 7 while maximum cost for best quality was U.S $ 17/Kg.Pork prices averaged between US $ 7-10 /Kg. A complete chicken cost U.S $6 while mutton was costliest at a minimum price of US $ 12/Kg.Was surprised to see a small plush building next to "The Butchers Daughter" housing "Victoria Falls Stock Exchange".
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| " OK" Franchisee shopping mall in Victoria Falls. A first World Mall. |
Entered the plush office of "Victoria Falls Stock Exchange" and enquired with the lone lady seated on an executive chair if this was a stock trading office or a actual stock exchange.Took a photograph in front of the Stock market advertisement as my bread and butter post employment retirement from the "Merchant Navy" is "Investments".A short uphill walk from "Victoria Falls Stock Exchange" led me to "OK Mall" where i purchased my lunch for the afternoon.In all the four Country's i visited the use of plastic bags for shopping was normal with no ban on usage of plastic bags .Yet on all the Safari tours on water as well as land didn't spot plastic garbage litter and the river's were clean..Local citizens understand the value of preserving the natural environment which is their gift from nature providing employment and income through wildlife tourism.'Shoestrings Backpackers Lodge"is a combination of various types of entertainment. It is partly a plush private club with a full fledged backpackers lodge and also a International playground for the young and young in mind. A real rocking and informal place with 5-star amenities and a goat named " CHICKEN" that leaves its droppings all over the palatial grounds as its official mascot.Relaxed the entire evening on the "Internet" updating my travelogue and later a "Aqua Yoga Swim" in the pool.Later in the evening a backpacker from Japan lodged into my vacant dormitory. Young 24 year old Ryoma was a construction worker from Kyoto and spoke little English. Among Asians,, Japanese and Chinese tourists are maximum in this Golden Safari triangle of Africa .
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| Sports Betting shop in Victoria Falls.There are two betting shops in two different plush building's in Downtown Victoria Falls. Very similar to the Betting shops in neighboring Livingstone in Zambia.One of the " Sports Betting shop " building is owned by a Indian origin Zimbabwean. When will " SPORTS BETTING" be legalized in India? |
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| Parkway Street, Downtown Victoria Falls. |
Thursday(6/10/2022) Departure Victoria Falls to Harare:- My last day of the " Golden Triangle African Safari" in Victoria Falls. Weather in Victoria Falls is warm in the morning in comparison to the chill early morning cold in Kasane.Walked to " OK" mall for my morning breakfast of French fries and fruits.Later met Ms Chido the receptionist and told her about my check-out at 1000hrs.Was busy on the Internet and as I mentioned before a writer is never ever alone and" Shoestrings Backpackers " with its ambiance and music could give few so called " 5-Star" hotel clubs a run for their money.Ahoy ! In the evening requested Manager Mr Innocent to keep a check on my luggage kept in the office and walked to Downtown Victoria Falls.Was amazed to discover not one but two " Sports Betting Shops " in two plush buildings just a few meters away and one of the building's was owned by a Indian origin person. Another strange fact is that no" pork meals" are served in any restaurants except ham products in the form of pizza's.Chicken was on top of the Human food chain followed by beef but no pork.Another discovery was that all toilets in all the places I stayed had only toilet paper in toilets and no provision for water washing in the form of flush hoses.
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| Vegetable & Fruit market at Chinotimba Bus Terminal at Victoria Falls. |
A indication that majority of the tourists were from "First World Country's" which includes Asia.At "Shoestrings Backpackers" pool had seen some of the best future model aspirants, both Black and Caucasian, in their "Bikini Suits". What me "OLD MAN" ? At 1900 hrs requested manager Mr Innocent to ring up the taxi driver and bid goodbye to "Shoestrings Backpackers" where it was truly a home away from home .It was a long drive to Chinotimba Bus terminal where all the buses were parked in a single line on a open ground.Paid the taxi driver US$5 and got my ticket and seat allotted by the ticket collector seated on a bench in front of the row of parked buses.Got my "Trolley Bag" checked into the "Luggage hold" of this 61 passenger capacity odd old bus of "Extra City" bus company that dominated the bus transport system in Zimbabwe.
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| Chinotimba bus Terminus at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Open air bus terminus with bus ticket sellers and ticket collectors sitting on a bench in front of the parked buses. |
Visited the fruit and vegetable market situated behind the row of parked buses and for the first time was in a normal African Bazaar and not a plush "First World Mall" that depicted the everyday living and shopping of the average income Zimbabwean.
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| Interior view of Bus No" ADZ 4998 " |
Rich,Middle Income and Low Income citizens form the social economic strata of every country be it "First World" or "Developing World" with only the "Per/capita" income of each country varying. Purchased 2 banana's,1 apple and a orange from this colourful vegetable/fruit market at Chinotimba bus terminal.Departure was punctual at 2100 hrs with me being the lone Non-Black passenger in the bus and dozed a little to be suddenly startled by the bus stopping and passengers creating a commotion.Seems we missed colliding with a wild animal in the dark night on the jungle road near Hwange .In all the 4 African Country's i travelled English was the common spoken link language besides the Country's official language or languages.My co -passenger was a young Zimbabwean and had a conversation with him.learning a little about our bus journey and Zimbabwe..The bus moved along at a very slow pace and did manage some sleep and finally at official daybreak began admiring the Zimbabwean Sunrise from this bus. This so called luxury bus would stop at specific places for passengers to board akin to a common public bus service as also at the normal stops on the route to Harare.
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| Vast Farm land on highway to Harare . Wheat is the main crop. |
At 0800 hrs reached the major town of Chegut where a large group of "Standing Passengers" of the "Luxury Bus" alighted.From Chegut it was another 108 Kms to Harare and i was hoping my gamble of doing a non-stop solo bus and air travel from Victoria Falls to Mumbai would not be a horrible bet gone wrong with me missing the plane due to a late arrival at the "Airport Check-In" counter.The average time travel for a bus journey from Victoria Falls to Harare is 12 hrs or maximum 13 hrs .The Bus conductor assured me that we would be in Harare by 1000 hrs and was hoping my horse would not lose at the finish post in a "Photo Finish" as a "Late Arrival" at the Airport terminal.Came across large tracts of barren farmland which was normally used for growing wheat and other seasonal crops.
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| Museum Of African Liberation |
October is the hottest and driest month in this region and once it rained in November cultivation would begin.Nearing Harare passed alongside the "Museum of African Liberation" complex built on 100 hectares of land and which was still under construction, a magnificent edifice overlooking the plains from a small hill and depicting the freedom struggle of various African Nations against Colonialism.Once totally complete this museum will also feature a 5-Star hotel,amusement park,Zimbabwe Defence forces(ZDF) exhibition park,zoo and also a mall.Nearing Harare passed alongside some palatial Bungalow houses, showcase residences of the wealthy elite of Zimbabwe.Finally to my unbelievable travel time estimation our snail pace bus rolled into "Extra City Bus Terminus" in Harare at approximately 0945 hrs and my bets of a non stop "Solo African road Bus cum Air Travel Safari" in a span of 29 hrs was becoming a reality.Alighting at "Extra City Bus Terminus" was on familiar ground and since i was travelling alone decided to give a co-passenger travelling along with a young lady heading towards Downtown Harare a lift enroute to the airport at a jaw dropping taxi fare of U.S $ 20.
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| Arrival at Harare by bus and off to " Robert Gabriel Mugabe " Airport" by taxi for plane to India. |
Passing along Downtown Harare came across the usual city crowd and traffic along with a few plush buildings dotting the skyline. Joina city building, the third tallest building in Harare was a majestic sight from the taxi.This building has the single largest lift and escalator installation in Zimbabwe.Taxi driver Carlos explained me Downtown Harare as we drove along where most of the business was dominated by Indian origin businessmen although bizarrely i didn't spot a single Sub-Continent tourist at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Finally instead of a anxiety of missing my flight i was early at "Robert Gabriel Mugabe" airport , a case of our bus having a sudden acceleration of wheels at the fag end of the journey and picking up speed to win in a photo finish. Ahoy ! A end to the most expensive taxi fares in comparison to mileage and Harare should definitely rank as one of the costliest city's in the World for hiring taxi's.Made my way to " Air Tanzania " check-in counter and after scrutinizing my travel documents, most importantly the on-line filing of " Air Suvidha Covid -19 Health Document" was issued my boarding ticket for "TC 212"..Took a photo with a majestic stuffed lion displayed in a showcase in the departure lounge.Met a Indian Mr Ranvijay.Yadav from Delhi employed in Johannesburg .
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| " Joina City Building " 3rd Tallest Building in Zimbabwe. |
.The security check was a inconvenience as usual with even shoes removed for X-Ray scrutiny. Finally after immigration walked past the "Duty Free" shops to the boarding gate.Saw a lone young Indian sitting in a corner speaking on the phone in Gujarati .Introduced myself to Mr Pratik.Panchal from Navsari and was surprised to know that he was a hobbyist Tabla/ Dholak player who had been invited to Harare to perform for the" Navratri celebrations" by the " Hindu Society" of Harare comprising mostly of the Gujarati business community. While we were talking another Gujarati family arrived and the language of conversation instantly changed from Hindi to Gujarati.No wonder non Indian origin foreigners get baffled by the Cultural, religious, language and ethnic diversity of India.Plane departure was prompt at 1300 hrs and after a hour landed at Lusaka Airport which seemed massive and beautiful from the plane window.My co- passenger Mr Rajesh from Jaipur was a businessman having hotels in Pattaya in Thailand and was depressed by the losses caused to his business due to tourism shutdown during " Covid 19 " pandemic.
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| Robert Gabriel Mugabe International Airport |
He was starting a new business in Harare,a businessman with a deal in various types of businesses . Surprisingly he had not much knowledge of my business ," Stock Market Investments ".On arrival at Dar-es-Salaam we had to change planes and in Dar-es-Salaam the custom security was stricter than Harare.Finally after the bizarre custom security check boarded the large " Air Tanzania Dreamliner Boeing TC 400 " and it was a pleasant journey back to permanent home Mumbai.My two side passengers wearing the traditional " Bohra caps" were young Bohra Muslim twin brothers on a religious pilgrimage to Mumbai .Introduced myself to Hussein. Alibhai , the twin seated next to me and was surprised to know that they had no relatives in India with Tanzania and Dar-es-Salaam being their permanent home after their great grandparents initially migrated from Gujarat in India.Dinner was excellent, fish with drinks while bizarrely the two Bohra brothers seated next to me just slept the entire journey to Mumbai without eating the lavish dinner.Travel educates.Saw in-flight movie "Call of the Wild(2020 production)" starring Harrison Ford and " Buck" ,the dog.
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| Robert Gabriel Mugabe Airport |
Finally at 0500 hrs landed in Mumbai with rainfall greeting our plane as it landed on a wet runway.I had broken my own record of continuous non-stop travel in a foreign Country having travelled a total of 29 hours in a combination of road and air transport that began in Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and ended at Mumbai in India.Immigration clearance was surprisingly quick in Mumbai and later after purchasing a few Duty Free consumer items walked through the exit and booked a common taxi on a hire of Rs 495 . At approximately 0615 hrs on a rainy October morning was at home in " Vaibhav Apartments " on Old Prabhadevi Road.End of a "African Safari" of wildlife sightseeing and road travel through the best and worst roads on the African continent.
